Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 41

Domaine Sigalas
2015 Santorini
Assyrtiko ($28)

MINIMALISM

You might expect vines grown on the volcanic sands of
Santorini to produce a salty wine. And this assyrtiko is
assertively salty, following on the sea-spray briskness of
the Champagne, and yet it holds a lot of fruit intensity. *
Brokenwood, grown in subtropical Hunter Valley, is harvested early and made with little contact with the lees (the
yeast cells and other solids left after fermentation). It's as
lean as the Champagne, with a little more fruit-you might
find scents of lime and star fruit. * Pour the
Santorini with roast lamb in a lemony sauce; match
the Hunter semillon with miso-glazed black cod.

Brokenwood
2009 Hunter
Valley ILR
Reserve
Semillon ($48)

Kumeu River
2015
Kumeu
Matés
Vineyard
Chardonnay
($57)

FRUIT BOOST
If you want to follow the flavor boost moving from the Laroche Chablis to the Drouhin
Meursault, look for a New World wine from a cool site, one made with attention to
the lees. You might head to New Zealand's North Island, where Michael Brajkovich,
a Master of Wine, grows chardonnay in sandstone at Matés Vineyard. His careful,
lees-driven winemaking produces a chardonnay that's broader and richer than the
Meursault, and though the fruit pops in a way that it doesn't pop in the Meursault,
the wine is still savory. * If it's the texture of the Grand Cru Chablis that appeals to
you, check out a chenin blanc: This grape tends to have a beeswax richness whether
grown in its homeland of France's Loire or in the dry-farmed vineyards of South
Africa's Swartland. Terre Brulée, made by Vouvray specialist Vincent Carême and
his South African wife, Tania, combines the richness you might have noticed in the
Chablis with the earthy spice of the Meursault, and takes it to a place that's warmer,
creamier and richer while remaining firm and savory. * The New Zealand
chardonnay will match a roast veal chop, while the Swartland
chenin blanc is made for fresh goat cheese.

WINE & SPIRITS

Terre Brulée
2016
Swartland
Tania & Vincent
Carême
Le Blanc
Chenin Blanc
($16)

FA L L 2 0 17

41



Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017

Contents
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 1
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 2
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 3
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 4
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 6
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 7
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Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 10
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