Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 52
HARD
The most fundamental decision is: hard or soft? The cheesemaking process will typically remove some 90 percent of the weight of the milk as
whey, but within that framework hard cheeses have less moisture and
are generally aged for longer than soft cheeses. To prevent them from
drying excessively during the months to years that they take to mature,
hard cheeses are almost always larger than soft cheeses.
Montgomery's
Cheddar
illustration by Paul Hoppe.
photos of Cantal, Pleasant Ridge Reserve, Appleby's Chesire, and Colston Bassett Stilton
courtesy of lafromagerie.co.uk.
T
Cantal
HARD
- CRUMBLY
The texture of hard cheeses can range from bitty and friable to smooth and uniform. Crumbly
cheeses include Cantal and its siblings from the Auvergne in France, as well as the gamut of English
territorial styles. Here cheesemakers undertake the lactic acid fermentation at the same time that
they drain the whey from the curd. As a consequence, the cheese tends to fall to pieces, rather than
bend, under pressure.
HARD - SMOOTH
In contrast, smooth cheeses have a cohesive, uniform texture, and are often much denser than
their crumbly counterparts. The smooth textures of Alpine-style cheeses, such as Pleasant Ridge
Reserve, Comté and Gruyère, are a result of a very quick make-ideally suited to the daily routine
of herdsmen on a remote mountainside-that aggressively pursues drainage through cutting,
heating and stirring the curd. At a few hours old, the young cheeses still taste milky and sweet.
52
WINE & SPIRITS
FA L L 2 0 17
Pleasant Ridge
Reserve
http://lafromagerie.co.uk
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017
Contents
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 1
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 2
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Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 4
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 6
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