When you find a pinot noir that hits all of the grape's hallmarks- fine-grained tannins, frisky acidity, red-berry fruit and truffle-y, stony earth-it just might make you an addict. Consider yourself warned. 56 WINE & SPIRITS FA L L 2 0 17 Illustration by Siobhán Thomas-Bupphavesa If/then: Pinot Noir