Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 67

Terroir al Limit
2014 Priorat
Les Manyes
($290)

MOUNTAIN FRESHNESS
The delicacy of classical Rioja tempranillo can lead you to a range of other light-bodied
reds, even in places where you might not expect to find them. The coastal mountains of
Priorat grow hearty reds, including old-vine garnacha (a variety also grown in Rioja). In
this particular case, it's a project from outsiders Eben Sadie and Dominik Huber, who,
after making wine in Priorat for close to a decade, began to shift to earlier harvests, fermenting with whole clusters and working toward infusion rather than extraction, the
kind of techniques that have become a rallying cry in Burgundy. They produce a garnacha with bright red fruit flavor, floral scents and a soft texture. * If you head to Jura, in
the high, cool mountains of eastern France, you'll also find reds with a parallel delicacy.
Domaine du Pélican, a partnership between winemaker François Duvivier and Guillaume
d'Angerville of Volnay's Marquis d'Angerville, produces this blend of three local varieties-pinot noir, trousseau and poulsard-creating a red-fruited wine with substance and,
at the same time, lightness and freshness.

Domaine du
Pélican 2015
Arbois Trois
Cépages
($45)

Guímaro
2014
Ribeira
Sacra
Meixeman
($40)

DARK & EARTHY

If you like the earthy side of López de Heredia, these two reds have
similar complexity. The Guímaro Meixeman is made from mencía, a
variety that grows in the steep river canyons of inland Galicia, and
gives a wine that tastes of blood, minerals and red fruit. * You might
find similar characteristics in a Brunello di Montalcino, only in a
more powerful package. It comes from a clone of sangiovese grown
in the steep Tuscan hills of Montalcino that gives wines that are bigger, more structured with mineral tones, than the wines from Chianti Classico, just to the north. Il Poggione feels tense and firm, the
wine more powerful and more acidic than the Guímaro.

WINE & SPIRITS

Il Poggione
2010
Brunello di
Montalcino
($85)

FA L L 2 0 17

67



Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017

Contents
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 1
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 2
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 3
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 4
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 6
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 7
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 8
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Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 10
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Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - Cover4
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