Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 71

FOCUS: NEW ZEALAND
Our blind panels tasted 167 new-release wines from New Zealand for this issue.
Joshua Greene, our critic for New Zealand, rated 28 as exceptional (90+) and 16 as Best Buys.
Find a complete list of wines tasted and all reviews at wineandspiritsmagazine.com.

W HI T E

PINOT GRIS

SAUVIGNON BLANC

CHARDONNAY

120788

93 | Greywacke

120879

92 | Mt. Beautiful

$22

2015 North Canterbury Chardonnay ^ A
flinty chardonnay with ripe flavors of baked
apples and peach fuzz, this wine's expansive
oak presence doesn't impinge on the earthier, mineral elements of its structure. § Mt.
Beautiful USA, Benecia, CA
120903

90 | Kumeu River

$57

2015 Kumeu Maté's Vineyard Chardonnay ^ Michael Brajkovich, MW, makes this
from his family's original vineyard north of
Auckland, which his father, Maté, replanted
in 1990. The mix of clay over sandstone
retains enough moisture that he doesn't
need to irrigate the vines. He ferments the
wine in barrels without added yeasts, and,
while oak dominates the flavors at this early
moment, there's a fascinating seashell note
underneath, along with broad strokes of
ginger and lemon zest. It's focused and taut,
needing several years to evolve. § Wilson Daniels, St. Helena, CA
120812

88 | Villa Maria

$15

2015 East Coast Private Bin Chardonnay
(Best Buy) ^ This simple, rich white offers a
lot of textural pleasure, even if its flavors are
a little blunt in their baked-apple and peach
notes. It reminded tasting director Sarah
Looper of fresh chamomile-"It tastes like
the color yellow," she said. Serve it with ripe
Brie or other bloomy-rind cheeses. § Chateau
Ste. Michelle, Woodinville, WA

120424

91 | Astrolabe

$23

2015 Marlborough Province Pinot Gris
(Best Buy) ^ This has the flavor depth of
apples and pears at the height of the season.
It's rich and toasty, with some spicy alcohol
adding to the structure, a creamy white for
equally rich fish, like roast halibut. § Share a
Splash Wine Co., Healdsburg, CA

$23

2016 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc ^ Kevin
Judd, the founding winemaker at Cloudy
Bay, makes this wine under his own label
from vineyards in the Southern Valleys and
Wairau Plain, as well as one on a terrace in
the upper Awatere Valley. It's a citrusy sauvignon in 2016, girded by flinty notes that
seem to tighten around all the rich lime flavors. Cool, laser-like acidity keeps it tense
and focused; for any roast fish. § Old Bridge
Cellars, Napa, CA

120878

90 | Mt. Beautiful

$19

2015 North Canterbury Pinot Gris (Best
Buy) ^ Pale and toasty, this wine's creamy texture carries the flavor of macadamia nuts and
an overtone of peach blossoms. It's clean,
firmed up by a little tannic grip. Serve it with
sliced pears and farmer's cheese. § Mt. Beautiful USA, Benecia, CA

RIESLING
120882

90 | Domain Road

$22

2014 Central Otago Riesling (Best Buy) ^
This cool and crunchy riesling has a texture
that parallels a Santorini assyrtiko in its phenolic grip. The underripe-peach and Kaffirlime flavors will play well against a coconut
fish curry. § Sagan Imports, Hermosa Beach, CA

120427

92 | Astrolabe

$25

2015 Marlborough Awatere Valley Sauvignon Blanc ^ Simon Waghorn makes this sauvignon from estate-grown fruit in the windswept Awatere Valley, on the coast just south
of Marlborough. It's a sauvignon with verve
and cut to its structure, providing an edge to
its honeyed tropical-fruit and pink-grapefruit
flavors. The spice and floral details will add
depth to ginger-and-garlic prawns. § Share a
Splash Wine Co., Healdsburg, CA

WINE & SPIRITS

OCTOBER 2017

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Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2017