Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 84
IMPORTED NEW RELEASES
92 | Staatliche Weinbau-
domäne Oppenheim
$28
2015 Rheinhessen Nierstein vom Rotlie-
genden Riesling QbA ^ This offers a compelling contrast of richness, mineral tones and
herbal spice. Imagine lemon curd with a
sprinkling of sea salt, and yellow plums rolled
in dried thyme, and you'll get an idea of the
complexity here; it won't be everybody's
thing, but rieslingheads will find it fascinating and delicious. It ends bone dry, wanting
a schnitzel to accompany it. § Legendary Wine
Imports, Aventura, FL
224637
90 | Dreissigacker
$28
2015 Rheinhessen Bechtheimer Ries-
ling QbA Trocken ^ A blend of fruit from
the Geyersberg, Stein, Rosengarten and
Hasensprung vineyards, this is fresh and
expansive. It starts out almost sharp in its
pointed minerality, then takes on smoky
herbal notes that bring some warmth and
detail to its savory tones. § Schatzi Wines, NY
226933
90 | Wittmann
$20
2016 Rheinhessen Riesling QbA Trocken
(Best Buy) ^ Sourced from Philipp Wittmann's biodynamically farmed vineyards in
and around Westhofen, this is tough at first,
marked by the scent the Germans call sponti,
a funky scent that occurs in some rieslings
fermented with ambient yeasts. Give it time
in the glass and those notes meld into the
wine, building texture and density around
the crisp green-papaya fruit. Full bodied yet
near-weightless, thanks to the limey acidity,
this has the sort of balance to take on most
any food. § Loosen Bros. USA, Salem, OR
226938
88 | Wittmann
$18
2016 Rheinhessen 100 Hills Dry Riesling
QbA (Best Buy) ^ The fruit is so plump in this
riesling that the wine feels sweet, with flavors
of peach and apricot nectar filling the mouth.
It's not until the finish that the minerality
comes up, a spicy, salty savor that brings this
to a drier close. Give it a chill, and grilled
prawns. § Loosen Bros. USA, Salem, OR
226752
87 | Kühling-Gillot
$18
2016 Rheinhessen Quinterra Riesling
QbA Trocken (Best Buy) ^ This is light and
lean, its lemony fruit focused along a flinty
mineral line. § M.S. Walker, Somerville, MA
RHEINHESSEN RIESlINg gg
226753
90 | Kühling-Gillot
$74
2015 Rheinhessen Nierstein Pettenthal
GG Riesling Trocken ^ This is a huge riesling from the biodynamically run estate of
84
WINE & SPIRITS
FEBRUARY 2018
Carolin Spanier-Gillot and her husband,
Hans Oliver Gillot. Fermented with ambient
yeasts in large oak casks, the wine is leesy and
broad, filled with notes of superripe peach
and golden apple as well as a little hint of
Comté cheese. The acidity is near buried,
the wine feeling round and soft, a Grosses
Gewächs in a gentle, barrel-fermented style. §
M.S. Walker, Somerville, MA
RHEINHESSEN RIESlINg
KABINETT
226095
85 | Georg Albrecht
Schneider
$14
2016 Rheinhessen Niersteiner Paterberg
Riesling Kabinett (Best Buy) ^ Give this
some air to blow off the sulfury notes so you
can get to the honeysuckle and ripe apple flavors. It's simple and a little sweet, to chill for
pad Thai. § Winesellers, Niles, IL
RHEINHESSEN RIESlINg
S PA T l E S E
224874
91 | Louis Guntrum
$25
2015 Rheinhessen Nierstein Rehbach
Riesling Spätlese (Best Buy) ^ A selection of
vines in Rehbach, a site that encompasses the
hallowed Brüdersberg, Hipping and Pettenthal vineyards, this falls at the sweet end of
the Spätlese spectrum, brimming with sweet
apricot flavor. That flavor rings out clean and
pure, the acidity acting like a spritz of lemon
to magnify and brighten it while floral herb
notes add delicacy and detail. § Broadbent
Selections, San Francisco, CA
224873
90 | Louis Guntrum
$33
2013 Rheinhessen Oppenheimer Sack-
träger Riesling Spätlese Trocken ^ Grown
in an amphitheater-shaped vineyard facing
south, this 2013 translates the warmth of the
site and the vintage into a golden wine. It
feels opulent and Old World, with scents and
flavors of dandelions and caramelized pineapple; the sweetness transforms into richness, notes of salted cashews and spice lasting
with a fleshy firmness. § Broadbent Selections,
San Francisco, CA
226096
87 | Georg Albrecht
Schneider
$18
2016 Rheinhessen Niersteiner Hipping
Riesling Spätlese (Best Buy) ^ Sweet apple
and delicate herb flavors give this riesling a
filigreed feel. It ends a little cloying, wanting
a chill and a spicy dish to bring it into balance. § Winesellers, Niles, IL
RHEINHESSEN RIESlINg
AUSlESE
225314
93 | Staatliche Weinbau-
domäne Oppenheim
$27
2015 Rheinhessen Oppenheimer Herren-
berg Riesling Auslese (Best Buy) ^ This staterun experimental winery and teaching center
dates to 1895, with about 60 acres of vineyards spread along the Rhein, from Nackenheim south to Deinheim. This comes from
the winery's home village, a selection of lateharvested fruit from a south-facing slope of
calcareous loam. Its sweetness comes across
in a sultry, smoky, slow build of flavor, the
way that a fresh peach turns more succulent
over a flame. It feels pure and delicate, notes
of green tea adding a pleasant bitter contrast
as the sweetness fades cleanly away. § Legendary Wine Imports, Aventura, FL
RHEINHESSEN RIESlINg
EISWEIN
225980
90 | Schmitt Söhne
$25
2016 Rheinhessen Riesling Eiswein (Best
Buy) ^ This smells like a garden in its floral
notes and sweet fruit, and feels like a pillow in its plushness. While there isn't much
noticeable structure, it's charming in its
approachability, and ends clean, with a blush
of red fruit. § Schmitt Söhne, Millersville, MD
GE RM A N R O S E
226947
88 | Koehler-Rupecht
$18
2016 Pfalz Pinot Noir Rosé Kabinett
Trocken (Best Buy) ^ This packs more flavor
than the pale pink color would suggest, notes
of wild strawberry and watermelon candy
filled out with mineral tones. Against the
richness of flavor, the acidity feels almost a
little screechy, the wine wanting a pork chop
to tone it down. § Louis/Dressner Selections, NY
GE RM A N RE D
224466
93 | Meyer-Näkel
$35
2015 Ahr Spätburgunder ^ Werner Näkel,
whose work with pinot noir brought Germany's Ahr region to prominence, is now
joined in the winery by his daughters, Dörte
and Meike. Their basic Spätburgunder in
2015 excels in its grace and energy: The flavors come across as breezy-tart, tangy fruit
scented with a foresty, herbal complexity, a
cool, stony minerality adding detail without
weight. The acidity vibrates through the wine
like a piano string, resonating with flavor and
scent. § Rudi Wiest Selections, Carlsbad, CA
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - February 2018
Contents
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 1
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 2
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 3
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 4
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 6
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 7
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 8
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 9
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 10
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 11
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 12
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Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - Cover4
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