Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 132
FOCUS: ALSACE
225207
toasty, nutty tone, while the wine ends firm
and clean. Serve it with apples and cheeses. §
Maisons Marques & Domaines, Oakland, CA
224706
87 | Willm
$14
2016 Alsace Réserve Pinot Gris (Best Buy) ^
Full figured, with touches of sweet melon,
this wine is girded by crunchy apricot flavor;
for aperitifs. § Monsieur Touton Selection, NY
RIESLING
227443
96 | Gustave Lorentz
$250
2010 Alsace Altenberg de Bergheim A 1.23
Grand Cru Riesling ^ Georges Lorentz farms
30 acres in the historic Altenberg vineyard
and began converting to organic viticulture
in 2009. The clay-limestone soils produced a
fragrant riesling with chalky pallor, an ornate
wine layering scents of brioche and lime leaf
over flavors of tart white cherries that seem
to glow. It's dynamic and delicious, but the
silky texture of the wine takes it to another
level. Substantial and savory in its opulent
umami depths, this is a riesling for braised
rabbit with spaetzle and chanterelles. § Quintessential, Napa, CA
227896
94 | Domaine Weinbach
$37
2015 Alsace Cuvée Théo Riesling ^ This
is a selection of riesling from the Clos des
Capucins, a 12.5-acre site protected by the
surrounding hills and warmed by the granitic gravels absorbing the heat of the sun.
Ripeness comes earlier here than at Weinbach's other sites, and yet the Fallers captured more freshness in this riesling than we
found in most other 2015s. That freshness
keeps it bright and energized from beginning to end, while the ripeness reads in the
creamy texture and in the complex undertones of veal stock and lasting spice beneath
the apple-scented fruit. This would turn a
simple roast chicken into an elegant meal. §
Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL
225670
93 | Trimbach
$239
2008 Alsace Clos Ste. Hune Riesling ^ Clos
Ste. Hune is a 4.12-acre parcel of limestone
in the Rosacker vineyard, a south-southeastfacing site the Trimbach family has farmed
for more than two centuries. It produces
one of Alsace's longest-lived wines, this 2008
needing several days to show itself, revealing scents of seashells out of the spicy radish
and rice-like savor of the structure. There's
nothing fruity about it, focused instead on a
powerful umami force that seems to derive
directly from the soil. If you open this now,
decant it for lobster with mushrooms and
cream. § Esprit du Vin, Syosset, NY
132
WINE & SPIRITS
APRIL 2018
92 | Charles Baur
$31
2015 Alsace Cuvée Charles Riesling ^ A
selection of riesling named for the estate's
founder, this grows on clay-limestone soils,
mostly around the village of Eguisheim. It's
a rich wine with enough limestone abrasion
to the acidity that it feels clean and fresh, the
generously concentrated flavors of lemon
and golden apple edged with bitter notes of
quinine, dandelion greens and lemon zest.
Tingling with energy. § V.O.S. Selections, NY
228147
92 | Domaine Bott-Geyl
$46
2014 Alsace Schoenenbourg Grand Cru
Riesling ^ Jean-Christophe Bott took over his
family's domaine in 1993, converting the
vineyards to organic (2000) and then biodynamic viticulture (2002). In 2012, the sandstone and muschelkalk soils of Schoenenbourg gave a deep golden riesling with
lasting fragrance, the fruit richness hinting
at the red skin of an apple, the pink flesh of
grapefruit and the sweet ripeness of Mandarin orange. The flavors end smoky and dry,
their richness cut by the detail in the texture,
a pumice-stone abrasion that should expand
into mineral complexity as the wine ages. §
David Bowler Wines, NY
227590
92 | Domaine Pfister
$29
2015 Alsace Tradition Riesling ^ The Pfister
family farms 24 acres in Dahlenheim, where
the soils are clay and limestone. This is their
basic riesling, a dynamic beauty in 2015,
smoky, pert and spicy with crunchy pear
flavors and forest-mushroom freshness. The
acidity seems to tumble through the wine,
lending mouthwatering tension. For roast
fish over chanterelles and cream. § Vintage
'59 Imports, Washington, DC
224896
92 | Domaine ZindHumbrecht
$120
2015 Alsace Rangen de Thann Clos StUrbain Grand Cru Riesling ^ The village of
Thann, in the southern reaches of Alsace,
includes this historic vineyard planted on
compacted, reddish-brown volcanic ash.
Olivier Humbrecht farms this steep site
under biodynamics, and it grows some of
his most distinctive wines. This is one of the
most dynamic 2015 rieslings we tasted, a
brisk, formidable wine with staying power.
It starts on zesty scents of fresh chamomile
and lasts on notes of sage and brisk yellow
fruit. This is a classically structured riesling
with a long life ahead. § Kobrand, Purchase, NY
224930
92 | Dom. Zind-Humbrecht
$55
2015 Alsace Roche Calcaire Riesling ^ This
is a blend based on riesling grown on lime-
stone sites Léonard Humbrecht planted in
the 1960s and '70s around his hometown of
Gueberschwihr. It has the deep, saturated
ripeness of the 2015 vintage, presented as
baked apple, as well as a cool, refreshing
briskness-the crunch of yellow plums, the
bite of pickled ginger. It's a zesty, satisfying,
biodynamic riesling to serve with hamachi
kama. § Kobrand, Purchase, NY
224932
92 | Dom. Zind-Humbrecht
$80
91 | Domaine Bott-Geyl
$29
2015 Alsace Clos Windsbuhl Riesling ^ This
grows on a high, steep slope of muschelkalk,
a cool site that ripens late and where the
grapes hold firmly to their acidity. That
acidity gives buoyancy and direction to
the ripe flavors of this 2015, glistening with
sweetness, completely integrated so that the
wine feels opulent and lifted at once. The
final impression is savory, like a spiced pear.
Suited to long evolution in the cellar, this is
rich enough to enjoy along the way with veal
schnitzel. § Kobrand, Purchase, NY
228148
2014 Alsace Lieu-dit Grafenreben Riesling ^
Concentrated and spicy with gingery intensity, this wine's flavors of baked pear and
loquat feel juicy and substantial. This grows
in clay-limestone soils in Zellenberg, offering
a powerful 2014 to chill for a Vietnamese fish
curry. § David Bowler Wines, NY
224918
91 | Domaine ZindHumbrecht
$100
2015 Alsace Brand Grand Cru Riesling ^
Brand is crunchy and delicious in 2015, building to a succulent complexity that seems to
roll around in different directions, from
apple clarity to toasty lees richness and gentle tannic grip. While the acidity feels soft,
the wine still has plenty of structure to sustain it as it ages. § Kobrand, Purchase, NY
227798
90 | Jean-Baptiste Adam
$53
90 | Jean-Baptiste Adam
$36
2015 Alsace Wineck-Schlossberg Grand
Cru Riesling ^ From a sheltered site of granite soils, this grew into a creamy richness
in 2015, with scents of almond paste and a
warm, cashmere-like texture. Hints of lanolin and minerality build into the structure;
to pair with chicken in a cream sauce. § The
Sorting Table, Napa, CA
225645
2015 Alsace Letzenberg Riesling ^ This
wine's structure falls between the pretty
briskness of a Mosel riesling and an
Austrian one, rich without weight. There's
a minimalist feel to the mineral and honey
notes, even as the energy of the wine gives it
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - April 2018
Contents
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 1
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 2
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Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - Contents
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Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - Cover3
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