Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 23
Ippo
Ippo's sign promises "fish and sake." The fish is the easy
part. Finding good tiny-production sakes in Tokyo is such
a challenge that Ippo co-owner Hideki Takano buys many
of them retail from shops with connections to breweries in
distant prefectures. Ippo's list of 42 sakes is one of the city's
most eclectic, filled with obscure, rare bottles-and all are
available by the glass. It's a tiny place; with just 12 chairs at
a long bar and three four-tops, it's worth calling for a reservation. Unlike the sake list, which is printed in English
characters, the daily-changing food menu is not, so you
may be best off asking for recommendations. Sashimi is
excellent (just ask for a "moriawase," or assortment), and
so is the grilled fish-removed from the grill at just the
right moment, when the fish is still plenty moist.
Ippo, 1-22-10 Ebisu, Kamasuya 2F, Shibuya-ku; 03-34458418, no website
Gen Yamamoto
Less a bar than a tea ceremony with booze, Gen Yamamoto is the eponymous parlor of a man who has wowed
the bartending world without making what most experts
would consider cocktails. Reservations are essential and
will get you a two-hour window in which he'll serve you
either four or six drinks, all in small pours (you won't leave
wasted). You will share the small bar with five other people
at most, and the only sound in the minimalist space will
be Yamamoto muddling and droplets of water falling in
a decorative fountain. There is no food, nothing to distract from the drinks. Yamamoto likes to muddle in-season
fruit and blend it with just one unusual spirit, such as pear
with an ume shochu that was aged in French oak. "I realize people do cocktails with many ingredients but I like it
when they're simple," Yamamoto says. "It's the same as art.
When I go to the museum, I like simple art." He also stirs
most drinks. "Shaking for most is performance. They don't
need to, but it looks hard." But simple doesn't mean predictable: When sweet potato was in season, one standout
drink was Domaine Boingnères Bas Armagnac 1984 with
roasted, muddled sweet potato and chocolate shavings.
Gen Yamamoto, 1-6-4 Azabu-Juban, Anniversary Building
1F, Minato-ku; 03-6434-0652, genyamamoto.jp/bar_tokyo/
English.html
WINE & SPIRITS
APRIL 2018
23
http://www.genyamamoto.jp/bar_tokyo/English.html
http://www.genyamamoto.jp/bar_tokyo/English.html
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - April 2018
Contents
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 1
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 2
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 3
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 4
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - Contents
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Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - Cover4
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