Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 28

Beatrice Inn

3
Blue Ribbon Federal Grill
Eric and Bruce Bromberg, the brothers behind the Blue Ribbon restaurant
group, have upped their game at their
shining new outpost in FiDi. You'll find
the dishes they're known for, like fruits
de mer and fried chicken, as well as
classics with the flavor turned up (think
sole meunière with brown butter and
crispy artichokes, or smoked bluefish
toasts with onion confit.) Sam Ehrlich's
penchant for Burgundy is clear in his
wine list, stocked with rare gems from
Burgundy and Beaujolais at reasonable
prices. Don't miss the Fed Burger with
bacon and blue cheese; it's even better with a Georges Descombes Vieilles
Vignes Brouilly ($63) or the A&P de Villaine La Fortune from Burgundy's Côte
Chalonnaise ($70). -S.S.L.
AKA Hotel, 84 William St.;
212-337-0404,
blueribbonrestaurants.com

Aldo Sohm Wine Bar
This is NYC's best post-theater option
for great wine and a quick bite,
thanks to sommelier Aldo Sohm's
ever-changing, far-ranging by-theglass selections and the Austrianaccented charcuterie tower. -T.Q.T.
151 W. 51st St.; 212-554-1143,
aldosohmwinebar.com

WINE & SPIRITS

APRIL 2018

Bar Goto

Kenta Goto, a Pegu Club alumnus, sets
the bar high for Japanese cocktails
at Bar Goto. The drinks-classics reinvented with sakes, shochus and teas-
are graceful and elegant, like the
Sakura Martini, which swaps out vermouth for sake and adds a blush of
Maraschino. Don't miss the miso wings
and the okono-miyaki, a savory cabbage
pancake that may be the perfect bar
snack. -R.D.
245 Eldridge St.; 212-475-4411,
bargoto.com

BlackTail

Jack McGarry and Sean Muldoon commemorate a piece of 1920's NYC history at BlackTail. Their Battery Park
bar transports you back to Prohibition,
when planes adorned with black tailfins-full of thirsty Americans en route
to Cuba-flew directly over Pier A Harbor House. What were those hooligans
drinking in Havana? Mojitos and daiquiris, sure, but McGarry and Muldoon
have riffed on the Old Havana scene
with cocktails like the Nitty Gritty: a
highball of Amontillado Sherry, Caribbean rum, banana, Curaçao and mint
syrup topped with Champagne. -D.G.
22 Battery Pl., Pier A, 2nd floor;
212-785-0153, blacktailnyc.com

photos: Beatrice Inn by Beatrice Inn; Blue Ribbon Federal Grill by Steve Hill

The Beatrice Inn has a storied history,
dating back to its speakeasy days in
the 1920s. Now, Angie Mar reigns over
the kitchen, specializing in nose-to-tail
butchery and open-fire cooking. Gluttony isn't sinful here; it's celebrated
with portions to feed an entire table.
Start with the savory plum tart, then
share an entrée like roast duck set afire
tableside or the signature meat pie.
The wine list is pricey, focused on big
reds, but there are bargains available
if you know where to look. Hint: Seek
out the aged Corsican reds, reasonable
Loire whites and textured rieslings. And
don't skip the Madeira page, mostly
Bual, to pair with Mar's whiskeywrapped dry-aged beef. -D.G.
285 W. 12th St.; 212-675-2808,
thebeatriceinn.com

http://www.thebeatriceinn.com http://www.bargoto.com http://www.blueribbonrestaurants.com http://www.aldosohmwinebar.com http://www.blacktailnyc.com

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - April 2018