Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 34

Kilo

La Pizza Fresca

You'll find one of the best Italian wine
lists in NYC in this unassuming Flatiron
trattoria. Brad Bonnewell has archived
his collection in two volumes of tiny type,
which include ample vertical arrays of
rare Barolos, ancient and modern Tuscans and a host of California cabernets.
Order a pie-chewy and wood-oven blistered in the Neapolitan style-and ask
for the list. They have magnifying glasses
if you need one. -J.G.
31 E. 20th St.; 212-598-0141,
lapizzafresca.com

La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels

Caleb Ganzer, a W&S Best New Sommelier 2016, has turned this dark NoLita space
into a sommelier hangout, thanks in particular to the extensive Champagne list,
where rare bottles regularly turn up at a fraction of the usual price. Wine geeks
delight in the Jura selection while collectors marvel at the Burgundy prices. Drop in
on select Monday nights for Ganzer's Wine Mixtape Series, when he lets other wineworld stars take over the bar with their own playlists. -T.Q.T.
249 Centre St.; 212-343-3660, compagnienyc.com

Indian Accent
At Indian Accent, from New Dehli star-chef
Manish Mehtrotra, the excitement isn't only
the innovative food: It's also Daniel Beedle's
wine list. Beedle emphasizes aroma and
texture above all, key characteristics with
Mehtrotra's complex dishes. Riesling leads
the way, from Germany and Austria to Slovakia, followed up by an impressive selection
of chenin blanc, grüner veltliner and sauvignon blanc, not to mention trousseau gris,
Hunter semillon and Corsican vermentino.
You might opt for the wine pairing with the
tasting menu, or choose a bottle like Movia's
2009 Veliko Bianco to experience how one
versatile wine can match a range of intense
flavors. -S.J.
123 W. 56th St.; 212-842-8070,
indianaccent.com

Le Bernardin

King

With Eric Ripert in the kitchen and Aldo Sohm on the floor, Le Bernardin may well be the finest fish restaurant of any port on the planet. It's
not just Sohm's list-some 900 labels deep, rich in carefully cellared
classics as well as unexpected bargains; it's also his friendly, gracious
tableside manner. -T.Q.T.
155 W. 51st St.; 212-554-1515, le-bernardin.com

WINE & SPIRITS

APRIL 2018

photos: La Compagnie des Vin Surnaturels by Kypo Karamos; Indian Accent by Christopher Villano; Kilo by Steven Truman & Chad Wagner

A sliver of a space in Hell's Kitchen, Kilo
feels like a well-kept secret, especially
when the wine list lands. How'd a 2004
Goumennissa from Tatsis, a tiny winery
with a cult following in Greece, end up
here? Who'd pour Koehler-Ruprecht's
pinot noir rosé by the glass in February or
list Hirsch's San Andreas Fault Pinot Noir
for just $85 a bottle? LJ Hollins is who,
a low-profile guy with little patience for
pretention in wine or service. The friendly
staff are shockingly well versed in the
list, and the chef, Matt Collins, turns out
terrific drinking food. Order the shiitake
tacos; though they sound like hippie food,
they go with nearly everything. -T.Q.T.
857 9th Ave.; 212-707-8770, nyckilo.com

River Café alums Jess Shadbolt and
Clare de Boer are turning out rustic, whimsical dishes that Annie Shi
matches with her smart two-sided wine
list of French and Italian bottles. The
ultra-thin Sardinian flatbread with rosemary and whipped baccalà surrounded
by green-tinged olive oil may sway you
towards vermentino or another coastal
white, like pigato or vitovska; all of the
selections make friends easily. The deep
flavors in a rabbit-and-white-bean dish
or quail with lentils could bring you to
Southern France or Corsican reds-both
of which are well represented. -D.G.
18 King St.; 917-825-1618,
kingrestaurant.nyc

http://www.nyckilo.com http://www.lapizzafresca.com http://www.compagnienyc.com http://www.indianaccent.com http://www.le-bernardin.com http://kingrestaurant.nyc

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - April 2018