Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 70
YEAR'S BEST GALICIAN WINES
three years. Then pour it with grilled meats
or sausages. § P.R. Grisley, Salt Lake City, UT/
Steep Hill Importing, Madison, NJ
230993
90 | Forjas del Salnés
$69
2015 Rías Baixas Goliardo Tintos de Mar
Loureiro ^ Intoxicating in its flavors of black
fruits, decorated by a layer of herbal notes
that lend freshness, this is dense, marked by
a persistent acidity that keeps its ripeness
in check. Enjoy this with a smoked salmon
empanada. § Olé Imports, New Rochelle, NY
RIBEIRA SACRA
231030
95 | Castro Candaz
$33
2016 Ribeira Sacra Finca El Curvado ^ Castro Candaz is the latest project of Raúl Pérez
and Rodrigo Méndez-partners at Forjas del
Salnés in Rías Baixas. El Curvado is a selection from two vineyards in Chantada, on the
left bank of the Río Asma, a tributary of the
Miño. It's planted primarily to mencía, with
a mix of other varieties including domingo
méndez (trousseau), garnacha tintorera and
caiño. It's vibrant with scents of cherries and
charcoal and radiant red fruit flavors. The
tannins are firm, the acidity sharp and the
minerality intense, a delicious and compelling expression of the black slate of Ribeira
Sacra. § Michael Skurnik Wines, NY
231027
95 | Castro Candaz
$26
2015 Ribeira Sacra Mencía (Best Buy) ^ Raúl
Pérez and Rodrigo Méndez present this as
their basic mencía from Ribeira Sacra, blending fruit from vineyards in Chantada and
Ribera do Miño. It rises above any such categorization with its lovely fruit flavors and
ferrous tannins. The sanguine notes, the tension and the vivid flavors give it an enchanting and distinctly Galician character. For a
venison stew. § Michael Skurnik Wines, NY
231029
94 | Castro Candaz
$51
2016 Ribeira Sacra A Boca do Demo ^ This
grows at a 2.5-acre walled vineyard in Chantada planted in 1950. The wine is austere,
tight and compact in its red fruit, without
much to show in terms of aromas. But give
it a day of air and you'll find a delicious
weave of red fruit and ferrous, mineral notes.
Decant it for pulled pork. § Michael Skurnik
Wines, NY
230512
93 | Algueira
$18
2016 Ribeira Sacra Mencía (Best Buy) ^ This
layers deep flavors of fresh red fruit over a
pronounced mineral structure, the impression of slate undergirding the fruit in a
refreshing and, at the same time, profound
70
WINE & SPIRITS
AUGUST 2018
wine. Give it time in the glass and those mineral notes yield space to subtle floral scents.
A beauty from old vines in the spectacular
and vertiginous slopes of the Amandi area. §
Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, NY
231004
93 | Fento
$26
93 | D. Ventura
$22
2014 Ribeira Sacra Xabre (Best Buy) ^ Xabre
grows at vineyards between 15 and 80 years
old, all in Quiroga-Bibei, the vines mainly
mencía, with some souson, mouratón and
garnacha. The tannins are as sharp as nails,
but if you don't mind that wild side, you may
find the wine's juicy red fruit and peppery
spice irresistible, especially with grilled quail. §
Alexander Jules, Santa Monica, CA
230075
2016 Ribeira Sacra Viña do Burato (Best
Buy) ^ This is D. Ventura's basic mencía, from
a parcel of 80-year-old vines on slate and clay
near the Miño River. It presents the grape
in all its fruity splendor-flavors of cherries,
raspberries and blackberries-decorated
with notes of slate and black pepper. The
texture has enough grip for game while the
acidity projects a sense of refreshment. § De
Maison Selections, Chapel Hill, NC
230549
92 | Finca Millara
$30
2016 Ribeira Sacra Cuesta de los Olivos ^
Cuesta de los Olivos is a vineyard surrounded
by olives trees on dramatic, steep slopes overlooking the Miño River. This is 100 percent
mencía, the variety's tense tannins mixing
with bright acidity, intensifying the redness
of the fruit and its pungency. It's a wine full of
vitality, developing floral and spicy touches
and light mineral details as it takes on air. §
SAWM Imports, Richmond, VA
230062
90 | Dominio do Bibei
$37
2013 Ribeira Sacra ^ A blend of mencía (90
percent) with brancellao, mouratón, souson
and garnacha, this envelops the palate in ripe
red-fruit flavors melded with notes of earth,
iron and chalk. There is strength in its structure and depth in its flavors. § De Maison Selections, Chapel Hill, NC
230548
90 | Finca Míllara
$23
2017 Ribeira Sacra Lagariza Summum
(Best Buy) ^ Exuberant in its ripe red fruit,
rich in sweet spice, this wine's core of acidity and firm tannins enhance its vitality. It's
youthfully tight, needing a couple of years in
the bottle to expand. Summum is a blend of
mencía (60 percent) with other local grapes,
including brancellao, sousón, merenzao,
caiño and a small amount of tempranillo. §
SAWM Imports, Richmond, VA
RIBEIRO
231156
96 | Luis A. Rodríguez
Vázquez
$31
93 | Luis A. Rodríguez
Vázquez
$60
90 | Casal de Armán
$19
2014 Ribeiro A Torna Dos Pasas (Best Buy) ^
Luis Anxo Rodríguez blends this from youngvine brancellao, caiño and ferrol planted on
the granite slopes of Arnoia, and ages it for a
year in 300-liter used barrels, where the tannins develop their strong ferrous character.
That bloody note accompanies earthy flavors, the wine needing time in a decanter for
the fruit to take command. It feels fresh and
crisp, preserved at a moment of peak ripeness. § Jose Pastor Selections/Vinos and Gourmet, Richmond, CA
231157
2011 Ribeiro Escolma A Torna Dos Pasas ^
Black fruits and spice are the protagonists in
this Ribeiro, a field blend including brancellao, caiño redondo and ferrol, all planted on
the slopes of Arnoia. It's intense, from the
color to the structure, filling the mouth with
its unctuous flavors of black fruits and nuts.
You'll need to decant it for venison stew if
you serve it now; or let it rest for five years in
the bottle to mellow and integrate. § Jose Pastor
Selections/Vinos and Gourmet, Richmond, CA
230470
2016 Ribeiro Eira dos Mouros (Best Buy) ^
Compact tannins lend this wine a tense
energy, supporting its fresh, lively acidity.
It's a blend of souson (50 percent), caiño (40
percent) and brancellao, already radiant in
its fruit flavors and set to develop further
with time in the bottle. § Think Global, Santa
Barbara, CA
VALDEORRAS
230216
90 | Alberto Orte
$40
89 | Camino de Cabras
$19
2015 Valdeorras Escalada do Sil ^ With a
marked accent on spice, this wine leaves
room for its fruit to develop into scents of
blackberries and raspberries. It is firm in
acidity, with powerful tannins that ask for
grilled sausages. This is a blend of merenzao (aka bastardo; 60 percent), mencía and
garnacha grown near the Sil River, on slopes
ranging from 1,640 to 2,460 feet in elevation. §
Olé Imports, New Rochelle, NY
230931
2015 Valdeorras Mencía (Best Buy) ^ Bright
and juicy, rich in black and red fruits, this
wine develops herbal notes as it opens with
air, filling its juicy structure. § Domaine Select
Wine & Spirits, NY n
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - August 2018
Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 1
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 2
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 3
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 4
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 6
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 7
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 8
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Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - Cover4
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