Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 86
IMPORTED NEW RELEASES
91 | Ameztoi
MARCHE
229971
86 | Velenosi
$15
2016 Lacrima di Morro d'Alba Querciantica (Best Buy) ^ Exuberant scents of lavender, violet and rosewater match this wine's
deep magenta hue and purple-fruited flavors
of spiced plum and dark cherry. Its chunky
tannins call for a pairing with cured meats. §
Domaine Select Wine Estates, NY
90 | Txomin Etxaniz
I TALY D E S S E RT
230825
90 | Ca'Rugate
$44/500ml
2014 Recioto di Soave La Perlara ^ Flavors of
baked apricot, golden raisin and orange-blossom honey meld in this extravagant wine. Its
creamy, viscous texture is cut by a peach-pit
bitterness and a note of candied orange peel
that brightens the finish. Pour it with biscotti
or nut-based desserts to balance the wine's
decadent sweetness. § Maritime Wine Trading
Collective, San Francisco, CA
LEBA NO N RE D
229909
89 | Ixsir
$17
2012 Batroun District Grande Reserve
(Best Buy) ^ A blend of cabernet sauvignon,
caladoc, syrah and tempranillo, this is herbal
and savory, the notes of dried cranberries
and oil-cured olives clenched in tight tannins. If those tannins loosen their grip over
the next few years, it will be delicious with
a fatty cut of lamb. § Fine Terroir Selections,
Greenwich, CT
231092
89 | Château Kefraya
$19
2014 Bekaa Valley Les Coteaux (Best Buy) ^
A curious blend of syrah with cabernet sauvignon, cinsault, tempanillo and marselan, this
is dark and earthy, with potpourri spice and
lean, dry tannins. Those tannins are holding it back for now; give it another couple of
years in the cellar to relax. § Cognac One, NY
S PA I N W H I T E
BASQUE
230912
92 | Itsasmendi
$30
2016 Bizkaiko Txakolina Bat Berri ^ This
probably is not the Txakoli you are used
to. The juice spent time in contact with the
skins, which gave it an orange hue, and it
was bottled unfiltered, so it looks cloudy. But
beyond the eccentric appearance, this is delicious, with notes of spiced, candied orange
and ripe pear. § SAWM Imports, Richmond, VA
230225
86
WINE & SPIRITS
AUGUST 2018
$22
2017 Getariako Txakolina (Best Buy) ^ Deliciously herbal, this smells of mint and green
tea, and is supported by tense acidity typical of whites from the cool and rainy Basque
Country. The wine's soft effervescence needles the flavor, drawing out the background
spice to bring complexity-more than just
simple freshness. § De Maison Selections, Chapel Hill, NC
229919
$22
2017 Getariako Txakolina (Best Buy) ^ A
creamy and ripe Txakoli, this has the potent
acidity of the grape, even as it ripened to
deep fruit flavors of pear and apricot. Open it
with deep-fried oysters. § Jorge Ordonez Selections, Dedham, MA
230334
88 | Rekalde
$18
2017 Getariako Txakolina RK (Best Buy) ^
With soft touches of smoke against a delicious background of ripe white fruit and
flowers, this is round and unctuous, although
it still has Txakoli's lance of acidity. Serve it
with a gratin of scallops. § Monsieur Touton
Selection, NY
BIERZO
231035
94 | La Vizcaína
$38
2015 Bierzo La del Vivo ^ This is Raúl Pérez's
personal project, based in the hills surrounding Valtuille de Abajo, the town where he
was born. La del Vivo comes from two plots,
the vines planted between 1925 and 1940,
focused on godello and doña blanca. The
wine offers hints of almonds, but what predominates are flavors of pineapple and ripe
peach, united by fresh acidity. More subtle
touches of oxidation bring complexity. Delicious now, this wine needs two or three years
to show everything it has to offer. § Michael
Skurnik Wines, NY
231039
93 | Raúl Pérez
$57
91 | Akilia
$36
2015 Bierzo Ultreia La Claudina ^ From
a parcel of vines on sandy soil in the town
of Valtuille de Abajo, this godello has precise acidity that delineates all of its flavors:
touches of flint and nuts along with ripe
white fruit. The texture is welcoming, even
as it holds tension thanks to that acidity.
Although it drinks well now, especially with
shrimp in garlic oil, this white has a long life
ahead. § Michael Skurnik Wines, NY
230971
2015 Bierzo K ^ Intensely floral, with scents
of geraniums and roses, this wine scatters
its sweet fruit flavors across the palate. The
slightly waxy texture makes this a perfect
companion for crab cakes. This is a field
blend, predominantly palomino fino (about
70 percent) cofermented with doña blanca. §
European Cellars, Charlotte, NC
230636
90 | Emilio Moro
$23
87 | Palacio de Canedo
$15
2016 Bierzo El Zarzal Godello (Best Buy) ^
Smoky and spicy up front, this wine's herbal
flavors slowly emerge in a refreshing godello.
Its creamy texture smooths over the spice,
ready for Cajun chicken. § Michael Skurnik
Wines, NY
230344
2017 Bierzo Godello (Best Buy) ^ Delicate
with notes of limes and green apples, this is
easy to drink, refreshing and crisp. For grilled
trout. § Regal Wine Imports, Moorestown, NJ
SPAIN RED
BIERZO
231025
95 | La Vizcaína
$38
94 | Antoine Graillot &
Raúl Pérez
$30
2015 Bierzo Las Gundinas ^ This is a field
blend from vines planted in 1910, mainly
mencía, along with bastardo, garnacha
tintorera and doña blanca, a white variety.
It's cofermented as whole bunches in large
oak vats, then the wine is aged in used 225liter barrels. The earthy notes act as a base
for the scents of red fruit, flowers and herbs,
unfolding with those mineral notes in the
background. Everything is in balance, from
the firm and delicate tannins to the acidity
that engulfs the fruit. The flavors are refreshing and deep, layered into wine that's delicious to drink now, and will gain complexity with another five years in bottle. § Michael
Skurnik Wines, NY
231026
2016 Bierzo Encinas Mencía ^ A collaboration between Antoine Graillot from CrozesHermitage and Raúl Pérez, this mencía
comes from a range of parcels, with a strong
focus in Rapolao, one of Pérez's star vineyards in the Valtuille de Abajo area. It's rare
for mencía in Bierzo to taste this fresh, with
so much energy and tension. There are meat
and mineral notes, but it's mostly just delicious, crunchy red fruit, filling the mouth
with freshness. The tannins are youthfully
wild, but nothing that game cannot remedy. §
Michael Skurnik Wines, NY
231034
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - August 2018
Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 1
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 2
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 3
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 4
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 6
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 7
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 8
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 9
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 10
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Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 12
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Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 19
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 20
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 21
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Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 25
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Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 88
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - Cover4
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