Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 87
IMPORTED NEW RELEASES
94 | La Vizcaína
$38
2015 Bierzo La Vitoriana ^ Growing at 1,870
feet in Valtuille de Abajo, La Vitoriana is one
of the oldest vineyards in Bierzo. Raúl Pérez
has records of its planting in 1890. As a young
wine, this accents its funky notes, with some
feral scents, earthiness and raw meat underscoring the black fruit flavors. The structure
is tight and firm, creating a compact block
of flavor that's just waiting for grilled lamb.
This wine will take years to fully grow into its
complexity. Cellar it for five years, or go for
that lamb. § Michael Skurnik Wines, NY
231021
94 | Raúl Pérez
$34
2015 Bierzo Ultreia Mencía ^ Raúl Pérez
crafted this red from a parcel planted mainly
to mencía, with some bastardo, garnacha
tintorera, doña blanca and palomino in the
mix as well. This unusual field blend offers
some unusual flavors, with the iodine notes
of raw meat and lots of black-pepper spice to
the ripe fruit. It tastes like its target is roast
suckling pig. § Michael Skurnik Wines, NY
231024
93 | La Vizcaína
$38
2015 Bierzo El Rapolao ^ Rapolao is a vineyard planted in 1920 with a field blend
of mencía, bastardo and some garnacha
tintorera. This wine's exuberant scent is full
of ripe red fruit, spices and minerals. The
tannins feel somewhat hard and a little wild,
needing four or five years to mellow in the
cellar. But the fruit flavors are intense and
lasting, supported by spicy notes and juicy
acidity. § Michael Skurnik Wines, NY
230149
93 | Pago de Valdoneje
$35
2015 Bierzo Viñas Viejas Mencía ^ Fiery and
tense, this wine shows the concentration of
its very old vines, planted more than a century ago in Valtuille de Abajo, in the heart of
Bierzo. It opens to a wall of tannins, needing air to allow the tart black fruit and spice
to come through. Still extremely youthful,
this needs at least four or five years of further age to deploy not only its strength, but
also its complexity. § MundoVino/The Winebow
Group, NY
230947
92 | Luna Beberide
$24
2015 Bierzo Finca La Cuesta ^ Finca La
Cuesta was planted more than 60 years ago
on the slate-and-clay soils of Villafranca de
Bierzo. This wine's black fruit flavors are
tart and compact, the structure tight and
firm, with tannins that need time to expand.
For the moment, it feels closed in on itself.
Decant a bottle for braised veal, or leave it
in the cellar for two to three years. § Grapes of
Spain, Lorton, VA
231023
92 | Raúl Pérez
$72
2015 Bierzo Ultreia Valtuille Mencía ^ Las
Villegas, a parcel in Valtuille de Abajo, was
planted at the end of the 19th century. It's
mainly mencía, but, according to Raúl Pérez,
who makes this wine, it also includes bastardo and garnacha tintorera as well as white
grapes such as godello and doña blanca. He
coferments them all to produce Ultreia. The
tannins are sharp and wild, their grip yielding to black fruit and herbs that leave a pleasant memory. Delicious with roast rack of
lamb. § Michael Skurnik Wines, NY
230658
92 | Vinos Guerra
$16
2012 Bierzo 1879 Centenaria Mencía
(Best Buy) ^ In the midst of the cascade of
red fruit flavors this mencía offers, there
are iron notes, mineral and deep, speaking
more of the slate ground where the vines
ripened their grapes than of something
merely varietal. The tension of the tannins
adds strength, and the acidity highlights
that bloody side until the end. § Private Cask
Imports, Palm Beach, FL
230991
91 | Pittacum
$24
2015 Bierzo Val de la Loba Mencía ^ This
wine's red fruit appears from behind a curtain of tannins, the flavors of black cherries,
raspberries and blackberries expansive and
mouthfilling. Cellar time should tame it,
but it's already irresistible with herb-roasted
pork. § Hidalgo Imports, Miami, FL
230961
90 | Luna Beberide
$85
89 | Luna Beberide
$17
2015 Bierzo Paixar Mencía ^ Ripe and deep,
this barbs its flavors of roasted chestnuts,
blackberries and blueberries with ferocious
tannins. It needs bottle age to grow gentle,
or decanting for a lamb stew. § Grapes of Spain,
Lorton, VA
230968
2016 Bierzo Mencía (Best Buy) ^ Refreshing
and nervy in acidity and in tart red fruits,
this is a tense and vivid wine that's easy to
drink on a hot summer day. Chill it down to
emphasize those red fruits and then pour it
with grilled tuna. § Grapes of Spain, Lorton, VA
VINO DE LA TIERRA DE
CASTILL A Y LEON
230392
92 | Quinta Sardonia
$20
to show its delicious herbal and floral notes.
It has a firm texture, with tannins to complement and balance the fruity generosity. §
Hidalgo Imports, Miami, FL
TURKEY WHITE
230484
91 | Chamlija
$20
90 | Turasan
$18
2015 Turkey Blanc de Noirs (Best Buy) ^
Mustafa Camlica founded this winery in
2000, planting his vineyards in the Strandja
Massif mountains, near the border with
Bulgaria. He focused on native varieties like
papaskarasi, a red grape he's fermented like
a white for this wine. It's fascinating: earthy
and red-fruited despite the pale color, with
notes of sour cherries and pale plums along
with dried apples and tea leaves. Not exactly
a simple sipper, it would find its place at the
table, perhaps with lamb braised in white
wine. § VinoRai, Seattle, WA
230479
2016 Turkey Emir (Best Buy) ^ Get past the
heavy layer of oak and you'll find a lush,
exotic white wine with lemongrass scents and
some skin-tannin grip. It feels firm and full,
balanced for another few years in the cellar,
though ready for grilled scallops. § VinoRai,
Seattle, WA
TURKEY RED
230475
91 | Turasan
$18
90 | Chamlija
$28
2013 Turkey Okuzgozu & Bogazkere (Best
Buy) ^ Hasan Turasan is the third generation
of his family to run this winery, established in
1943. He focuses on local grapes, like the two
in this blend. Fermented in stainless steel and
concrete tanks, aged in stainless steel with a
small portion in oak, the wine has a heart
of bright red cherry flavor that balances its
more mature notes. The touches of leather,
spice and black olive and the still-firm tannins suggest pairing it with something rich,
like moussaka. § VinoRai, Seattle, WA
230486
2015 Turkey Papaskarasi ^ Fresh and herbal,
this has a juicy, thirst-quenching pomegranate tang to its fruit, and a foresty undercurrent of cool earth. The bitter-almond tannins
give it enough edge to pair with herbed lamb
meatballs, or oil-cured sheep's cheese. § VinoRai, Seattle, WA n
2016 Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León
Sardón (Best Buy) ^ The fruit is black, intense,
firm, surrounded by a vibrant acidity, full of
light. This is tempranillo (97 percent) with
a little garnacha, cabernet sauvignon and
malbec, a blend that needs time in the glass
WINE & SPIRITS
AUGUST 2018
87
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - August 2018
Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 1
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 2
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 3
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 4
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 6
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 7
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 8
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 9
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 10
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Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - Cover4
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