Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 51

YEAR'S BEST US RIESLINGS
tangerine flavor, it also has plenty of complexity, in its chalk and celery-salt textures,
its honeysuckle phenols gathering the finish.
Flush with fruit and with energy, it's a great
pour with Korean bi bim bap. (300 cases)
516150

92 | Brooks

$24

2017 Yamhill-Carlton Yamhill Vineyard
Riesling ^ From a vineyard planted in the
mid-1980s, this is tense and bright, with hightoned passion-fruit flavors edged in lemon.
Lean and muscled, this has a mineral tautness that gathers the finish. (75 cases)
516147

91 | Brooks

$32

2017 Eola-Amity Hills Brooks Estate
Vineyard Riesling ^ Drawn from Brooks's
45-year-old estate vineyard, this is complex
and jangly from the first sniff, smelling of
lichi and Tequila salt, with a touch of botrytis
breadth and complexity in the background.
Its flavors take on broader apple and peach
tones, dry and mildly nutty, with a flinty mineral finish; to pair with halibut. (200 cases)
516892

91 | Ovum

$27

2017 Elkton Oregon Base Line Bradley
Vineyard Riesling ^ Bradley is an own-rooted
vineyard near Elkton, not far from the ocean,
and one of the coolest growing regions in the
Umpqua Valley. It grew a bright and citrusy
riesling in 2017, with pomelo-pith and lemonlime scents that turn into richer, more concentrated fruit flavors. Pour it with scallops.

517166

91 | Trisaetum

90 | Brooks

$24

2017 Willamette Valley Vitae Springs
Vineyard Riesling ^ From a vineyard planted
in the late 1970s just south of the Eola Hills,
this wine projects an old-vine reticence. It
feels angular right from the scent, all lemonlime and citrus pith, and follows with a tart
apple flavor and firm, slatey acidity. It feels
like it needs years in the cellar. (125 cases)
517167

90 | Trisaetum

$32

2018 Ribbon Ridge Ribbon Ridge Estate
Dry Riesling ^ Another youthful entry from
Trisaetum, this wine is zippy and bright, with
scents of citrus, lees and jasmine, and firm,
lean flavors. The celery-salt notes and grippy
phenolics bring it to a mouthwatering finish.
(418 cases)
517189

89 | Edgefield

$17

2017 Chehalem Mountains Nicholas Vineyard Riesling (Best Buy) ^ At once bright and
tropical, this offers a mélange of fruit flavors,
broad and off-dry, yet it manages to remain
sleek-a rich, energetic wine to bring to dim
sum. (450 cases)

516576

87 | Chateau Ste. Michelle

2017 Columbia Valley Dry Riesling (Best
Buy) ^ Displaying marvelous composure for
such an inexpensive wine, this starts off tart
and finishes plump and round, its classic
apple accents taking on a quince richness
with air.
517174

86 | Wahluke

$13

2018 Columbia Valley Whispering Tree
Riesling (Best Buy) ^ A pleasing yuzu tartness
leads in this inexpensive riesling. It's dry and
mildly saline, with a lemony edge.
516575

85 | Chateau Ste. Michelle

2017 Columbia Valley Riesling (Best Buy) ^
Off dry, with the scent of warm apples, this
has enough acidity to keep it brisk and balanced. n

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516578
$32

2018 Dundee Hills Wichmann Dundee
Dry Riesling ^ Young and savory, with a scent
of lemon blossoms and pear skin, this has
a green-herb bite and a powerful punch of
acidity that, while thrilling, could use some
time to settle down. Pour it with whitefish.
(305 cases)
516144

90 | Brooks

ginger and lemon, this is on the dry side,
refreshing, lifted and clean; for sea bream.
(200 cases)
516151

$45

2017 Eola-Amity Hills Eclipse Totality
Brooks Estate Vineyard Riesling ^ An oldvine white with a scent of apples limned with

93 | Chateau Ste. Michelle
& Dr. Loosen

$20

2017 Columbia Valley Eroica Riesling
(Best Buy) ^ Subtle and complex as ever,
the 2017 Eroica delivers on its best features
(including price!) while introducing a few
more. It is always an accessible wine, just
off bone dry; this one starts off with lemon
and dried pineapple scents, then yields more
complex markers of petrol, wool and citrus.
It feels balanced and bright, luminous in
purity, with a mild phenolic bitterness that
holds the sweet fruit aloft. A steal at $20.

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Wine & Spirits - August 2019

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