Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 72

YEAR'S BEST GREEK WINES
leaves and dry herbs, cedar and cigar swirling around a core of red fruit that's still juicy
and fresh. It's head-filling yet delicate, a wine
to savor slowly, over the cheese course. Only
100 six-packs came to the US; get it while you
can. § Verity Wine Partners, NY
272291

94 | Alpha Estate

$23

2016 Amyndeon Hedgehog Vineyard
Xinomavro (Best Buy) ^ Here's a red to buy
by the case-one case for this summer, as it's
light enough to chill, and another for the cellar, as this is structured enough to keep. It
comes off of Angelos Iatridis's younger vines,
growing in a sandy 23-acre vineyard close
to his winery. Cold-soaked and fermented
in stainless-steel tanks, then aged in whitetoasted barrels for one year and in bottle for
another, it's bright and fresh, with no perceptible wood influence to get in the way of the
fruit. That fruit is cherry-red and layered with
spice, notes of wild herbs and fennel fronds
accenting its cool feel, but it's the acidity that
gives the wine its tautness and precision, an
energy that makes it ready to enliven the evening. § Diamond Importers, Chicago, IL
271586

94 | Kir Yianni

$58

2016 Imathia Diaporos Xinomavro ^ This
comes from a single block of vines at Yianakohori, the estate that Yiannis Boutaris
founded after leaving his family's winery.
Planted at high density on a hillside of loamy
clay with a particularly high pH, it's always
stood out for producing loose bunches of
small, intensely flavored berries that often
do not have seeds. The 2016 is a sleek red,
its bright acidity highlighting the purity of its
strawberry-red fruit while fine tannins combine with savory, earthy notes to give it a firm
grounding. § Diamond Importers, Chicago, IL
272264

93 | Argatia

$19

2016 Macedonia Haroula (Best Buy) ^
Haroula Spinthiropoulou, one of the most
respected agronomists in Greece, runs this
winery with her husband, Panagiotis Georgiadis, on the edge of the Naoussa appellation. She grows a range of varieties here;
this blend showcases xinomavro, the local
favorite, with negoska and mavrodaphne, to
create an exuberant wine, its sweet, spicedcherry flavors layered with notes of licorice
and earth. And while it feels gentle, it has an
internal strength that keeps it fresh for days
after opening. § Verity Wine Partners, NY

272352

272351

93 | Ktima Voyatzi

$27

92 | Alpha Estate

$34

2016 Velvento Tsapournakos ^ Tsapournakos is the local name for cabernet franc, a
variety that's been grown along the northeastern shores of Lake Polifitou for decades.
Here, in the sunny warmth of the area, it
takes on a lush richness, its cherry fruit kept
juicy by a cool, foresty spice. It's intense but
not heavy, a Greek take on a French bistro
red. § Celina Imports, Old Bethpage, NY
272292
2016 Florina S.M.X. ^ Mostly syrah, with 20
percent each merlot and xinomavro, this is
linear and firm, its spicy berry flavors traced
by a clean, bright acidity. Gravelly tannins
bring up a rooty richness that fills out the
wine without adding weight, heightening
its polish and restraint. § Diamond Importers,
Chicago, IL
271914

92 | Thymiopoulos

$26

2015 Naoussa ^ Apostolos Thymiopoulos
blends this wine from vineyards at a range
of elevations in Naoussa, ferments it in
stainless-steel tanks, and ages it in used 500liter oak barrels. The result stands out for
its purity: It tastes like Naoussa, with brisk
red-cherry fruitiness and a cedary freshness,
herbal spice and leathery earth. Approachable now, it's also balanced to age well. § Athenee Importers & Distributors, Hempstead, NY

92 | Ktima Voyatzi

$20

91 | Argatia

$19

91 | Argatia

$26

90 | Dio Fili

$18

90 | Kokkinos

$20

2016 Velvento Xinomavro ^ Yiannis Voyatzis, the head winemaker of Boutari, makes
this wine at his family vineyards one hour by
car south of Naoussa, not far from Polifitou
lake. The warmth of the area comes through
in this wine's sappy, sweet cherry flavors and
the fine texture of its ripe tannins while notes
of orange zest and tangy acidity keep it lifted.
Lithe and elegant, it could easily sub in for a
Langhe nebbiolo. § Celina Imports, Old Bethpage, NY
272265
2015 Macedonia Haroula (Best Buy) ^ With
extended bottle aging, the xinomavro in this
blend seems to have come to the fore, with
notes of tomato leaf and cast iron riding over
the concentrated cherry fruit. It's earthy and
mature, the sottobosco notes suggesting a
pairing with a rich mushroom risotto. § Verity
Wine Partners, NY
272273
2014 Naoussa Xinomavro ^ Haroula Spinthiropoulou credits the July hailstorms of
2014 with taking out enough fruit that the
remainder could ripen well, and disease-free,
through a wet season. So, while it was a small
vintage, she was able to turn out a deliciously
delicate Naoussa, one that plays floral scents
and fruity mushroom notes off of its savory
red-cherry fruit. Restrained and elegant, it's
petite but perfectly proportioned. § Verity
Wine Partners, NY
272256
2016 Siatista Xinomavro (Best Buy) ^ Garnet red, this is a firm, elegant xinomavro,
its red-cherry fruit filled out with notes of
tomato leaves and rich earth. Fine-grit tannins hold the flavors fast and fresh; for grilled
lamb. § Verity Wine Partners, NY
272258
2014 Naoussa Xinomavro (Best Buy) ^ Balsamic tannins whip this ripe red into shape,
driving through its mineral, mushroomy fla-

72

WINE & SPIRITS

AUGUST 2019
http://www.ktimavoyatzi.gr/wines/xinomavro http://www.ktimavoyatzi.gr/wines/tsapournakos
Wine & Spirits - August 2019

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