Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 21

3

6

Absinthe

Angler

"Still one of the fairest priced
lists in the Bay Area," says Jeremiah Morehouse, MS, wine
director at Gary Danko. Opened
in 1998, Absinthe serves French
bistro fare that's more hearty
than nouveau, tending toward
classics like duck-liver mousse
and coq au vin. They started
amassing Burgundy verticals
before prices went stratospheric,
and still have scores of perfectly
mature bottles for less than
$200. -L.S.
398 Hayes St.; absinthe.com

Wine director Mark Bright is a
fanatic for Burgundy and northern Rhône wines, and there's an
abundance of rarities at this gracious dining room on the Embarcadero. But Bright and head
sommelier Morgan Harris have
assembled an impressive library
of pinot noir and chardonnay
from California as well, including verticals of Rhys and Calera.
This is also the place to get a
taste of chef Josh Skenes's seafood-driven, live-fire approach to
cooking without shelling out for
the full Saison experience. -L.S.
132 The Embarcadero;
anglerrestaurants.com

4

3

A Côté
6

At A Côté in Oakland's Rockridge
neighborhood, Jeff Berlin and his
staff guide tables through wines
that lean toward ancient growing
regions like Georgia, Lebanon,
Greece and Slovenia. You'll also
find adventurous selections from
France and Italy, like Gravners
from the mid-2000s, and grapes
like budai zöld from Hungary
and cornalin from Switzerland.
New chef Elaine Osuna has reenergized the menu with panMediterranean dishes like ajo
blanco (an almond-grape soup)
and duck tagine. -B.H.
5478 College Ave. (Oakland);
acoterestaurant.com

7
Barndiva

photo of 20 Spot by Grace Sager; Barndiva by Drew Kelly

5
Acquerello
For those craving well-aged
Barolo, Gianpaolo Paterlini's
northern Italian wine program is
paradise. First, though, it's worth
ordering from his meticulously
selected Champagne list. Like
the wine program, chef Suzette
Gresham's menu pulls strongly
from Piemonte while remaining
flexible to deliciousness in all its
forms, especially the fresh flavors of California seafood and
produce. -L.S.
1722 Sacramento; acquerello.com

7

Local Sonoma and Mendocino
wines are on heavy rotation at
this farm-to-table anchor of
downtown Healdsburg. But
wine director Chappy Cottrell
knows his way around Old World
wines as well. Among Cottrell's
pet projects, you'll find a small
collection of English sparklers
from Hattingley Valley and
Nyetimber, a pocket of nervy
coastal California syrahs, and a
four-year vertical of Leflaive's
Bourgogne Blanc. -L.S.
231 Center St. (Healdsburg),
barndiva.com

WINE & SPIRITS

OCTOBER 2019

21



http://www.absinthe.com http://www.anglerrestaurants.com http://www.acoterestaurant.com http://www.acquerello.com http://www.barndiva.com

Wine & Spirits - October 2019

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2019

Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 1
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 2
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 3
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 4
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 6
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 7
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 8
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 9
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 10
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 11
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 12
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 13
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 14
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 15
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 16
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 17
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 18
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 19
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 20
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 21
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 22
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 23
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 24
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 25
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 26
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 27
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 28
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 29
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 30
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 31
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 32
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 33
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 34
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 35
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 36
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 37
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 38
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 39
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 40
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 41
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 42
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 43
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 44
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 45
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 46
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 47
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 48
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 49
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 50
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 51
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 52
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 53
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 54
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 55
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 56
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 57
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 58
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 59
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 60
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 61
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 62
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 63
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 64
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 65
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 66
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 67
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 68
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 69
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 70
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 71
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 72
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 73
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 74
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 75
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 76
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 77
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 78
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 79
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 80
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 81
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 82
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Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 84
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 85
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 86
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 87
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 88
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 89
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 90
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 91
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 92
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 93
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 94
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 95
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 96
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 97
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Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 101
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 102
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 103
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 104
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - Cover4
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https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/drm_test
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201112
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201110
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