Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 66

YEAR'S BEST RED BURGUNDIES
90 | Vincent Girardin

$64

2016 Volnay Les Vieilles Vignes ^ This wine's
plump raspberry richness is held in a sturdy
structure, the earthy tannins working their
way in to darken the fruit. It finishes black
and smoky, a saturated young Volnay to age. §
Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL
272335

90 | Domaine Jessiaume

$52

2017 Volnay 1er Cru Les Brouillards ^ Clean
and foursquare, this is a dark-cherry-scented
red that provides a contemporary bridge for
New World pinot noir drinkers to access Burgundy. It's smoky rather than earthy, lasting
on ripe, saturated fruit. Pour it with rare
prime rib. § USA Wine West, Sausalito, CA
272330

90 | Domaine Jessiaume

erated black-cherry fruit. And it would work
well with seared duck breast, especially if left
alone in a decanter for the afternoon before
dinner. § Shiverick Imports, Los Angeles, CA

FLEURIE
236574

90 | Clos des
Quatre Vents

$24

2017 Fleurie This site's granitic soils delivered a firm and gracious Beaujolais, a 2017
that's saturated with rich flavors of black figs,
a savory, tight red built for roast duck. (W&S
4/19) § Quintessential, Napa, CA

$86

236572

91 | Domaine des Rosiers

236573

90 Château des Capitans ^ $22
2017 Juliénas Georges Dubouef bottles this
wine for Château des Capitans; it's a sweet
and generous Juliénas, packed with wildberry flavors and black-pepper scents. Its
ripe fruit will match roast squab. (W&S 4/19) §
Quintessential, Napa, CA

CO TE C H A LO NN A IS E

2016 Morgon Les Charmes ^ This domaine
includes 17.5 acres of mature vines in Les
Charmes, where the soils are sandy loam and
clay with large blocks of sandstone. The wine
contrasts fresh berry notes with an umami
sense of forest mushrooms. There's plenty of
black-cherry acidity in the end, giving this
an effusive feel, with enough cut to match
Peking duck. (W&S 4/19) § Cognac One, NY
272816

R U L LY
272691

$43

2017 Rully Les Chaponnières ^ This wine's
satin texture yields clean red-cherry flavor
with warm notes of cumin and mixed peppercorns that last. It feels firmly structured
and fresh, far outperforming many of its siblings in the appellation. § Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA

B E A UJ O L A I S C RU
B R O U I L LY
272586

90 | Dom. Laurent Martray

$30

2016 Brouilly Corentin ^ Tarry and black
when first poured, this wine's sanguine notes
of raw meat mellow with air. It turns spicy
and lean, with a duck-meat savor to its mac66

WINE & SPIRITS

MOULIN-A-VENT

$40

2016 Volnay 1er Cru Santenots ^ A rooty Volnay, this wine's rich cherry-scented fruit is
broad, refined and "unambiguously earthy,"
as panelist Craig Ganzer described it. As
someone who makes a living assessing the
value of old wines, he said, "This will taste
like a handful of dirt in twenty years, but I
like that." There's an honesty to the wine that
gives it the traditional feel of an artisanal
Burgundy. § Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL

90 | P. et M. Jacqueson

$22

2017 Morgon (Best Buy) ^ This is a lively
Morgon with dark currant and sweet cherry
flavors layered over earthbound tannins. The
tannins tighten up the fruit and ground it,
keeping it savory in the end. Serve this cellar
temperature with roast quail or other game
birds. (W&S 4/19) § Quintessential, Napa, CA

JULIENAS

2017 Volnay ^ Youthful and unformed, this
wine smells as earthy as braised tripe; then
the fruit slowly comes into focus, with notes
of raspberry and strawberry over the herbal
savor of the tannins. This needs a year or
more in the cellar to evolve. § USA Wine West,
Sausalito, CA
272473

90 | Thierry et Pascale
Matrot

90 | Georges Duboeuf

OCTOBER 2019

MORGON
236608

92 | Château Bellevue

92 | Château des Jacques

$28

$27

2016 Morgon ^ Cyril Chirouze blends this
wine from a range of parcels, tapping the
domaine's 87.5 acres in Morgon. It's a complex wine that stands up to the time it spent
in oak barrels, gaining spice and supple textures from that aging without having lost
any of its tannic power or its stemmy, stony,
deep fruit character. This needs a steak if you
open it now; if you don't, it will continue to
develop in bottle. § Kobrand, Purchase, NY
236576

$27

2017 Moulin-à-Vent ^ Gérard Charvet makes
this wine at his family's domaine; it's bottled
by Duboeuf. Packed with earthy tannins,
this is a mineral-driven Moulin-à-Vent with
brisk strawberry notes washing over the cool
earth tones. It has the structure to benefit
from a year or two of bottle age. (W&S 4/19) §
Quintessential, Napa, CA

BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES
273002

90 | Thibault Liger-Belair

$30

2016 Beaujolais-Villages Les Jeunes
Pousses ^ There's an honesty to the cherry
charm of this wine, meaty and spicy and lasting on that earthy fruit. Decant it for pâté de
campagne. § Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL

BOURGOGNE
272809

87 | Louis Jadot

$22

86 | Maison Roche
de Bellene

$16

2016 Bourgogne Pinot Noir (Best Buy) ^
This has the anise scent that we found in a
number of 2016 red Burgundies, an unusual
licorice-like character adding to its cherry
and smoke notes. A clean Bourgogne rouge,
this will match meaty dishes, like tourtière, a
savory Québécois pie. § Kobrand, Purchase, NY
273196
2017 Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes (Best
Buy) ^ Light and pretty, this has some stemmy
greenness to its tannins while the finish is
clean, short and pleasant. A light red for roast
beef. § Loosen Bros. USA, Salem, OR n

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Wine & Spirits - October 2019

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2019