Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 77

YEAR'S BEST MENDOZA MALBECS
them, which they use in this blend, along
with malbec; they dry both varieties lightly
before pressing. It smells distinctly Italianate
in its play of tart fruit, warm spice and figgy
richness, and tastes fascinating: It's malbec
taken in a rococo direction, with notes of
chocolate, almond, candied citrus and plum
skins. Balanced and elegant, ready for osso
buco. (W&S 4/19) § Kobrand, Purchase, NY
123926

90 | Mendoza Vineyards

$35

2015 Mendoza Gran Reserva Malbec ^ Malbec in all its lushness, this is violet-scented
and as rich as devil's food cake. Blackberry
flavors well up from the center of all that
chocolatey richness, infusing the wine with
a fresh juiciness. It's not complex, but it's
hedonistic. (W&S 6/19) § Tri-Vin Imports, New
Rochelle, NY

90 | Tinto Negro

124360
$40

2017 Mendoza Finca La Escuela Malbec ^
A blend from plantings in all the soil types
found in this high-altitude vineyard in Paraje
Altamira, this malbec needs time in the glass
to reveal the detail in its blackness. With air,
the wine brightens, velvet tannins delivering juicy notes of blackberry and plum with
precision and clarity. § Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL
124437

90 | Toneles

$60

2015 Mendoza Abrasado Unique Parcel
Gran Malbec ^ From a vineyard in Valle de
Uco, this is ripe and warm, the sweetness of
oak adding to the wine's mulberry richness.
It feels youthful and unevolved, a chewy, tannic malbec needing time in the cellar and a
thick steak. § Tri-Vin Imports, New Rochelle, NY
124568

90 | Vistalba

$65

2016 Mendoza Corte A ^ This contrasts malbec's soft, plummy fruit with vegetal notes of
cabernet sauvignon (18 percent of the blend)
and the brisk acidity of bonarda (16 percent).
It's ripe and lean at once, restrained by fine,
firm tannins. § Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits, Petaluma, CA
124569

123634

90 | Tapiz

$20

2017 Uco Valley Alta Collection San Pablo
Malbec ^ Cool acidity ripples through this violet-scented malbec, deep, rich and refreshing
all at once. Grown at 4,430 feet in altitude,
it captures both the abundant sun and the
cool of the high Andes in its thirst-quenching juiciness while notes of spice, earth and
herbs add detail. (W&S 4/19) § Vino del Sol,
Paso Robles, CA
124777

90 | Tinto Negro

$35

2017 Mendoza Finca La Escuela Malbec La
Arena ^ From a collaboration between former
Catena colleagues Alejandro Sejanovich and
Jeff Mausbach, this comes off a vineyard at
4,000 feet in elevation in Paraje Altamira. It's
named for the school (escuela) on the property, and a portion of the proceeds from the
sales of the wine go to support education for
vineyard workers' families. While the altitude keeps the air temperature cooler than
lower vineyards, the sandy soils here retain
heat, making for a wine that's both rich
and fresh. Its soft, plummy center radiates
warmth, with a mushroom fruitiness and forest-floor scent that lifts and complements the
flavors. § Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL
124775

90 | Vistalba

$30

90 | Zuccardi

$30

2016 Mendoza Corte B ^ This malbec is
blended with more bonarda and less cabernet sauvignon than Corte A (also recommended here), giving it a brighter, fresher
feel. There's a pomegranate tang as well as
a cherry-leaf herbal note that adds lift and
drive; it has the freshness of mountain air,
clean and clear. § Pacific Highway Wines &
Spirits, Petaluma, CA
124800
2018 Paraje Altamira Poligonos Malbec ^
This isn't your usual full-throttle malbec.
Sebastián Zuccardi blends it from a parcel of vines growing in the calcareous soils
of Altamira, their roots wrapping around
granite stones covered in a layer of calcium
carbonate. The 2018 seems to translate the
brightness of those white soils in its brisk,
radiant flavor. It's super spicy, a frisky red
that's light enough to pair with grilled fish
steaks topped with tapenade. § Winesellers,
Niles, IL
124622

88 | Andeluna

$10

2018 Uco Valley Filosur Malbec (Best Buy) ^
Appealingly savory for a $10 wine, this balances tangy blueberry and cranberry flavors
with notes of nuts and earth. It feels easy
and wholesome, a welcome choice for a wide
range of meaty dishes. § MHW, Manhasset, NY

88 | Antigal

$15

88 | Kaiken

$12

88 | Santa Julia

$13

88 | Santa Julia

$10

88 | Zorzal

$15

2017 Mendoza Uno Malbec (Best Buy) ^
Vegetal green notes highlight the light, floral spice of this malbec, a cool, cherry-toned
red to chill for a merguez sandwich. § Cork Alliance, Doral, FL
124310
2018 Mendoza Estate Malbec (Best Buy) ^
This unfurls a lush spread of purple fruit
along its velvety tannins, with a little wood
spice playing around the edges. It's simple
and immediately inviting, especially at $12. §
Guarachi Wine Partners, Woodland Hills, CA
124591
2018 Uco Valley Reserva Mountain Blend
(Best Buy) ^ Mostly malbec, with 30 percent
cabernet sauvignon, this is a high-octane red,
its sweet, chocolatey plum flavor balanced by
alcohol's peppery spice. § Winesellers, Niles, IL
124457
2019 Mendoza Plus Malbec (Best Buy) ^ As
bright as the fuchsia edge of the wine in the
glass, this is vibrant and fresh, appealing in
its immediacy. § Winesellers, Niles, IL
124657
2018 Tupungato Valley Terroir Unico Malbec (Best Buy) ^ Pleasantly gritty tannins give
this plummy malbec more structure than
most at the price. It's spicy and fresh, ready
for anything grilled. § Brazos, Brooklyn, NY

124628

87 | Doña Paula

$13

86 | Finca El Origen

$10

2018 Mendoza Los Cardos Malbec (Best
Buy) ^ This is floral and bright, a tangy, herbal
malbec with bright acidity lending it a fine
structure. § Trinchero Family Estates, St. Helena, CA
124563
2018 Mendoza Estate Malbec (Best Buy) ^
Fuchsia in color, this is bright and fresh, with
peppery herbal notes and sweet purple fruit. §
Carolina Wine Brands USA, Charleston, SC n

WINE & SPIRITS

OCTOBER 2019

77
http://www.bodega-tapiz.com.ar/en/wines/tapiz-san-pablo-wines http://www.donapaula.com/wine/los-cardos-malbec/
Wine & Spirits - October 2019

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2019
