Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 89

US NEW RELEASES
with a mildly gripping texture; for a guanciale pasta. (196 cases) -P.J.C.
517954

93 | Rose & Arrow

$120

2017 Eola-Amity Hills Gathered Stones
Hopewell Hills Pinot Noir ^ From the east
side of the Eola Hills, this sturdy pinot is
derived from a complex mélange of basaltbased soils. It's exotic and spicy when first
poured, with a mineral tinge and an almost
saline tang. Texturally it's focused and bright,
holding flavors of succulent fruit and wild
mushrooms. Cellar it for a year before pouring with swordfish. (244 cases) -P.J.C.
517412

93 | Walter Scott

$85

2015 Eola-Amity Hills Zenith Vineyard
Pinot Noir ^ Elegant and a bit reticent, this
wine from the Hills' windy west side feels
earthy and savory, with scents of olive, cured
tobacco and cherry skins. The flavors are
vibrant and succulent, with an invigorating
red-cherry/cranberry tartness, and firm fruitskin tannins on the finish. -P.J.C.
517827

92 | Bergström

$70

2017 Eola-Amity Hills Temperance Hill
Vineyard Pinot Noir ^ Wildly spiced, with
scents of sage, rosemary, pipe tobacco and
that peculiar smoky cherry scent that seems a
signature impression from Temperance Hill,
this has a mouthfilling succulence. Give it
time in the cellar to gather in that mineral
intensity, before serving with chicken and
mushrooms. (350 cases) -P.J.C.

517869

92 | Chapter 24

$61

2017 Willamette Valley The Fire Pinot
Noir ^ Lush and satisfying, The Fire is Chapter

$52

2016 Dundee Hills Sandra Adele Pinot
Noir ^ With scents of turf and dried leaves supporting a quiet red-fruited cherry-compote
aroma, this generous wine feels like comfort
food, ripe and succulent but with a pleasing
bitter note that frames the wine and creates
a savor for duck confit. (170 cases) -P.J.C.
518179

92 | Lingua Franca

$55

2017 Eola-Amity Hills Estate Pinot Noir ^
Stone's estate pinot balances pretty cinnamon notes with cherry scents, whisked
together in a suspension such that neither
dominates. The flavors feel lighter and less
ripe than the aromas would suggest, more
cranberry and pink melon, but the texture
gains heft from the spice and energy of the
driving acidity. (800 cases) -P.J.C.
517959

92 | Rose & Arrow

517868

$91

2017 Willamette Valley The Last Chapter
Pinot Noir ^ The 2017 Last Chapter draws
primarily from two vineyards: Stardance, in
the Yamhill-Carlton AVA, and Witness Tree
in the Eola-Amity Hills, both comprised of
fractured basalt. It has a smoky vibe, with
aromas of creosote, dark cherry and dark
red soil leading into sleek, succulent cherry
flavors hemmed in by sumptuous oak. This
has the structure to age. -P.J.C.
518038

92 | J. Christopher

91 | Bergström

$65

91 | Bergström

$80

91 | Bergström

$45

91 | Bryn Mawr

$50

91 | Geodesy

$80

91 | J. Christopher

$30

91 | J. Christopher

$65

91 | Walter Scott

$55

2017 Yamhill-Carlton Gregory Ranch
Pinot Noir ^ This wine possesses the broad and
succulent weight associated with fruit from
Oregon's sedimentary soils. It also has the
depth of flavor, its deep briary cherry notes
offering structure and stalwart intensity. For
braised lamb. (1,250 cases) -P.J.C.
517829
2017 Chehalem Mountains Silice Pinot
Noir ^ This is a powerful pinot, with a core of
dense, dark strawberry and plum flavor that
feels wrapped up tight in a firm plum-skin
skein of tannins. Pour it with rare flank steak
and chimichurri. (1,300 cases) -P.J.C.
517828

$65

2017 Eola-Amity Hills Temperance Hill
Vineyard Pinot Noir ^ Gorgeous from the
get-go, this wine, from the high-elevation
north block of this fabled vineyard, issues a
light-beam of red cherry fruit simultaneous
to its herbal elements of tobacco, bergamot
and black pepper. It's elegant and poised,
even as it feels like it will burst from all the
freshness it's emitting. This is likely to reward
years of cellar time. (100 cases) -P.J.C.
518070

92 | Adelsheim

24's ode to vineyards with volcanic soils. The
wine leads with whole-cluster spice and plush
red fruit, not so much dense as it is saturated
with flavor. It's warm and inviting, with dusty
tannins that add heft and a chewy richness,
giving this the stuffing to age. -P.J.C.

$150

2017 Dundee Hills Red Dust Worden Hill
Pinot Noir ^ Worden Hill sits at 900 feet in
elevation on a south-facing site at the crest
of the Dundee Hills, where the rock is transitioning into soil. To call this wine "Red Dust"
is fairly spot-on: It articulates the wine's irondust scent and its mineral grip, the texture
made precise by those ferrous tannins, all in
the service of succulent, sweet red-berry fruit.
(123 cases) -P.J.C.
517826

2017 Willamette Valley Cumberland
Reserve Pinot Noir ^ Like strawberries
crushed in a bowl and dusted with baking
spice, this is assertive in its aromatics, with a
lift that stresses freshness. It feels linear and
firm, yet precise in its tannic weave. -P.J.C.
517491
2016 Eola-Amity Hills Krista's Block
Pinot Noir ^ From the shallowest soils of
Krista's Block, this pinot leads with bright
red fruit that gives the wine lift even as its
oak frame grounds it. It has the structure for
smoky grilled char. (125 cases) -P.J.C.
518043
2017 Chehalem Mountains Chehalem
Mountain Vineyard Pinot Noir ^ This has an
Italianate feel in its scents of tar and violets,
sun-dried tomato and plum. The wine feels
sleek and structured, with a deep, creamy
core of black-plum flavor. (115 cases) -P.J.C.
518030
2016 Dundee Hills Volcanique Pinot Noir
(Best Buy) ^ J. Christopher's entry-level wine
overdelivers, leading with a bright burst of
extracted plummy flavor that holds a wheatand-rye savor. It's exuberant, with a veil of
tannins that grounds the wine and gives it
a pleasing bitterness. (1,700 cases) -P.J.C.
518035
2016 Chehalem Mountains Estate Pinot
Noir ^ This pinot has a humus-like forestfloor scent adorning its black-cherry fruit.
It's warm and inviting, hugged but not overtaken by oak. (70 cases) -P.J.C.
517408
2017 Willamette Valley Freedom Hill
Vineyard Pinot Noir ^ Smoky and exotic, this
compact pinot has a core of black-plum fruit
WINE & SPIRITS

OCTOBER 2019

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Wine & Spirits - October 2019

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2019