Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 107

expression of Pouilly limestone, with broad,
pale lemon richness that turns gingery as
it tightens up in the end. Fresh and bright. §
Shiverick Imports, Los Angeles, CA

ST-VERAN
275886

90 | Marie-Pierre Manciat

$24

2017 St-Véran Le Clos (Best Buy) ^ This sixthgeneration vigneron farms 54 acres of vines,
including her 1.6 acres at Le Clos, planted
more than 50 years ago. She ferments it
spontaneously, with half the lot in 400-liter
barrels, where it continues through malolactic conversion before being blended back
for aging in tank. It presents a savory, floral
white, hinting at fresh apples in the finish,
melding into the scent of Marcona almonds.
Gentle and firm, it will complement a ripe
triple-cream cheese, such as St-André. § Shiverick Imports, Los Angeles, CA
272773

90 | Damien Martin

272391

92 | Domaine de la Folie

$29

91 | Etienne Sauzet

$41

2017 Bourgogne Aligoté ^ Savory and herbal,
with notes of pressed flowers, this has the
crunch of an apple and the chewiness of
plum skin. It's bright and juicy, with layers
of umami depth. Decant it for grilled chicken
livers and other earthy robata skewers. (W&S
10/19) § Vintage '59 Imports, Washington, DC
273000
2017 Bourgogne ^ Here's a Bourgogne blanc
with the structure and depth of flavor to age.
It's fresh and clean, with peach and chamomile flavors integrated into the nutty lees.
Full, bright and lasting, this is estate grown at
a parcel just outside Puligny-villages-and it
would be impressive at a village level. (W&S
10/19) § Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL
276311

88 | Maison Chanzy

$26

88 | Vincent Girardin

$25

2018 Bourgogne Les Fortunés Chardonnay (Best Buy) ^ A fat and happy chardonnay
from 35-year-old vines in Bouzeron, this is
clean and welcoming in its perfumed pear
and apple flavors. Cushioned by leesy richness, it made me wonder, why can't there
be more Bourgogne blancs like this? § Craft +
Estate/Winebow Imports, NY
275740
2017 Bourgogne Cuvée Saint-Vincent
(Best Buy) ^ Tart baked-apple flavors meet
this wine's salty limestone acidity, leaving
a pale, nutty richness that's savory rather
than sweet. Its supple texture will meld with
roast halibut finished with cream. § Vineyard
Brands, Birmingham, AL ■

$26

2018 St-Véran ^ St-Véran makes up the biggest
holding in Damien Martin's family domaine,
with 13.5 acres in the appellation. He makes
this wine mostly in stainless steel; the ten
percent that went into barrels lends a hint
of oak tannins to structure the wine's clean
peach and pineapple flavors and the wheaty
scents of lees. It's pale and friendly. (W&S
10/19) § Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA

B OUZ E R O N
272796

92 | Louis Jadot

B OU RGOGNE

$26

2016 Bouzeron ^ Bright and zesty, this
aligoté has a mix of ripe strawberry scents
and underripe strawberry flavors. That
pale greenness gives the wine some floral
tension, keeping it bright and zesty even as
the texture is broad and luscious. It's a clean
and fragrant white to pour with boudin
blanc. (W&S 10/19) § Kobrand, Purchase, NY
272637

90 | Dom. Michel Briday

$26

89 | Maison Chanzy

$30

wine

geek
lover
student
intellectual
maker

It doesn't matter who,
only that you are.

And so are we.

2017 Bouzeron Cuvée Axelle ^ This wine's
saltiness tightens up its lush and juicy fruit.
A simple, pale refreshment with floral and
earthy notes, pour it with almonds. (W&S
10/19) § Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL
276314
2017 Bouzeron Les Trois (Best Buy) ^ This is
a ripe aligoté with the toasty, nutmeat flavors
of the grape. It's clean and lasting, a simple
pleasure alongside roast seabass stuffed with
lemon and thyme. § Craft + Estate/Winebow
Imports, NY

Wine&S
& pirits

https://www.wineandspiritsmagazine.com/subscriptions

Wine & Spirits - April 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - April 2020