Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 112

NEW RELEASES: RED BURGUNDY
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET

several days of air, this has settled into succulent and juicy depths. Some bitterness in
the tannins gets subsumed by all that fruit,
the wine needing eight or ten years to fully
evolve. § Boisset Collection, St. Helena, CA

CORTON

276664

90 | Domaine
Coffinet-Duvernay

$35

2017 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Voillenots (Best Buy) ^ Fresh and fragrant raspberry
notes infuse this light Chassagne. It's bright,
with hints of green spice and lasting, clean
red fruit. A lovely red for roast fish. § Taub
Family Selections, Boca Raton, FL
276444

89 | Famille
Carabello-Baum

$42

2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot (Best Buy) ^ A bold and substantial Chassagne rouge, this has silky red fruit that leans
a bit toward cherry syrup before the tannins
bring the texture into line. Give it a year or
two for the tannins and the fruit to integrate,
then serve with roast duck. § Famille CarabelloBaum, San Francisco, CA

CLO S D E L A R OCHE
276261

96 | Domaine
Michel Magnien

$270

2017 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru ^ This
domaine includes a parcel within Clos de la
Roche, adjacent to Clos St-Denis, planted on
brown limestone soils where the vines give a
powerful grand cru wine. Frédéric Magnien
included 29 percent whole clusters in the fermentation of this wine, aging 46 percent of
the lot in terra cotta amphora, the balance
in old François Frères oak barrels. This 2017
is walled off by the intensity of its red fruit,
integrated into the mineral intensity of the
tannins. A hint of lifted floral spice develops
over the course of several days as the texture turns suave, but the wine still speaks
more about structure than flavor. It's sleek
and vibrant, with energy that converts the
refined scent of oak barrels into the kind of
spice that only adds bliss to the wine itself. §
Craft + Estate/Winebow Imports, NY
276522

94 | Jean-Claude Boisset

$330

2017 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru ^ Bright,
with concentrated plum-skin savor and peppery spice, this is a youthful grand cru wine
that carries its power with grace. There's
some high-toned volatility at first, but with
112

WINE & SPIRITS

APRIL 2020

276645

92 | Domaine
Antonin Guyon

$150

2017 Corton Bressandes Grand Cru ^ With
its brisk structure tightly dressed in red fruit,
this wine has more juicy generosity than
you might expect from Corton. It's sunny,
bright, clean and fresh, then lasts on tense,
floral earthiness. Guyon farms 2.1 acres in
this grand cru. § Taub Family Selections, Boca
Raton, FL
276081

91 | Domaine
Chandon de Briailles

$175

2017 Corton-Maréchaudes Grand Cru ^
Full and generous in its velvety texture, this
wine's youthful, grapey fruit hints at roots
and flowers. There's a charry note of grilled
beef while, overall, this remains closed within
its textural pleasures. For the cellar. § David
Bowler Wines, NY
275661

90 | Domaine Tollot-Beaut $165

2017 Corton Grand Cru ^ This wine's silk
and satin textures are its best assets, the
sweet cherry fruit component substantial
but remaining quiet for now. It's rich with a
delicate intensity, needing bottle age to show
its grand cru stature. § Craft + Estate/Winebow
Imports, NY
275612

90 | Domaine Tollot-Beaut $162

2017 Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru ^
Earthy and dark in tone, this wine has meaty
beef broth flavors to its plummy fruit. The
wine is powerful, but closed off for now. Cellar this for five years or more to allow the
wine's complexity to develop. § Craft + Estate/
Winebow Imports, NY

ECHE ZE AUX
275628

95 | Bouchard Père & Fils

$360

2017 Echézeaux Grand Cru ^ An exceptional
Echézeaux, this has the kind of energy and

brilliance that sets true grand cru wine
apart. Frédéric Weber works with fruit from
40-year-old vines at a single parcel, just under
one acre, fermenting it with ambient yeasts, a
portion in tronconic wooden vats, the rest in
stainless steel. He included 20 percent whole
clusters in 2017, and aged this vintage 14
months in oak barrels (30 percent new). The
wine's deep well of cherry-scented fruit has
an inherent stamina-or is it just the stamina
it inspires in the drinker to keep going back
for another sip from that well? Tasting coordinator Corey Warren described it as having "a coherent progression of flavor complexities," while another panelist described
its "beautiful bones." § Maisons & Domaines
Henriot, NY

GEVREY-C HAMBERTI N
275540

94 | Maison
Roche de Bellene

$150

2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Champeaux ^ This parcel of 76-year-old vines produced a wine that's bold, dynamic and concentrated enough to completely digest the
influence of the new oak barrels in which it
aged, revealing a velvet briskness. "It's classic Gevrey," said Elan Moss-Bachrach of Sussex Wine Merchants. "A bruised strawberry,
cranberry and lovely green mint quality. It's
like you just smoked a cigar: An incredible
example of how complex pinot noir can be."
This is a powerful wine with energy and elasticity to all its succulent flavor. It gives a warm
welcome and should only grow more compelling with age. § Loosen Bros. USA, Salem, OR
276259

92 | Domaine
Michel Magnien

$66

2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Seuvrées Vieilles Vignes ^ Seuvrées lies just below Mazoyères-Chambertin at the border between
Gevrey and Morey, where Frédéric Magnien
tends 60-year-old vines, his farming certified
biodynamic since 2015. The site produced a
muscular, grippingly tannic 2017 with floral
red cherry and ripe cranberry flavors that
completely fill out the structure. It has stature and intensity, all of a piece. § Craft + Estate/
Winebow Imports, NY
275550

92 | Maison
Roche de Bellene

$110

2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes ^
Gevrey unbound, this is rustic and muscular
Burgundy, a wine you could serve to lumberjacks and they'd probably be okay about it.
(Yes, it's a little sweaty.) The primary impression is concentrated cherry, highlighted by
persimmon-like spice and lighter, floral
https://www.wine-searcher.com/find/dom+coffinet+duvernay+les+voillenots+chass+montrachet+cote+de+beaune+burgundy+france https://www.wine-searcher.com/find/dom+antonin+guyon+corton+bressandes+grand+cru+les+cote+de+beaune+burgundy+france/2017
Wine & Spirits - April 2020

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