Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 25
3
American Beauty
On upper Rose Avenue in Venice, American Beauty occupies
a repurposed bodega with vintage booths and a dark-paneled,
Twin Peaks-style lounge. Chefs
Elisha Ben-Haim and Anthony
Goodwin call it a steakhouse,
and serve a showstopping 15-day
dry-aged Flannery rib-eye, but
there's also hamachi collar or
orata roasted in a blizzard of
herbs. Abby Martin addresses
both surf and turf in her wine
list, annotated with subplots
like "Les Femmes Mauvaises" or
"Nasty Women of Winemaking"
-a list that includes Cathy Corison, Faith Armstrong, Eva Fricke
and Donatella Cinelli Colombini. -P.J.C.
425 Rose Ave., Venice;
310-412-0075, americanbeauty.la
4
Anajak
Anajak has served classic Thai
dishes in Sherman Oaks since
1981. That's often where a
story like this ends, except that
33-year-old Justin Pichetrungsi
decided to return to the family
business after a career in art and
film. His first line of attack was
the wine list. Aided by friends
at Everson Royce wine shop in
Pasadena, he built a list that
leans natural, favoring producers who are mom-and-pop, like
his family-and whose kids have
taken the reins from their moms
and pops. The options-wines
like Domaine François Pinon's
Vouvray, or Cascina degli Ulivi's
Semplicemente red from Piedmont-all have high acid and
sharp focus, to counter the fragrant Thai flavors. -S.L.
14704 Ventura Blvd.,
Sherman Oaks; 818-501-4201,
anajakthai.com
5
1
Angler
Joshua Skenes' Los Angeles
debut is a reprise of the San
Francisco classic by the same
name. Here chef Dameon Evers
puts out dramatic seafood
plates, like sea bream ceviche
or poached marbled flounder,
as well as the occasional game
dish, like antelope tartar. Mark
Bright, Skenes' beverage helmsman, wrote the opening list, a
tome now pushing 4,000 bottles
and overseen by Peter Carrillo. It
takes advantage of Bright's deep
ties in the Burgundy community,
and includes wines he makes
under the Saison label for the
house pour. -P.J.C.
8500 Beverly Blvd.,
Los Angeles; 424-332-4082,
anglerrestaurants.com
2
3
6
Antico
Antico feels like an Old World
taverna. Most nights, big parties take over long communal
tables to feast on mounds of
lamb shoulder, pastas with tripe
ragù, or swordfish with olive,
lemon and capers from Chad
Colby's kitchen. Kevin Caravelli
oversees a wine program focused
on Italy's midsection-Tuscany,
Lazio, Umbria-but he includes
estimable wines from California, France, even Australia.
Older wines reside on his everchanging reserve list, like a 1989
Château Meyney St-Estephe, or
a 1995 Eredi Fuligni Brunello di
Montalcino. -P.J.C.
4653 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles;
323-510-3093, antico-la.com
4
5
6
WINE & SPIRITS
APRIL 2020
25
http://www.americanbeauty.la
http://www.anglerrestaurants.com
http://www.anajakthai.com
http://www.antico-la.com
Wine & Spirits - April 2020
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - April 2020
Contents
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 1
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 2
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 3
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 4
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - Contents
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Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - Cover4
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