Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 26
7
Auburn
7
9
Bavel
8
8
Augustine
This wine bar serves as an
anchor for what amounts to a
wine ghetto in Sherman Oaks, a
drive-through Valley suburb in
the notch formed by the 405/101
interchange. The market-driven
menu is short and respectable,
and the charcuterie board a
standout, but the heartbeat of
the place issues from an unassuming chalkboard, its contents
revised daily, describing the evening's offerings of wines by the
glass. There are seven to ten a
night, all well-priced, all foraged
and curated by David Gibbs
and Matthew Kaner, like a 2009
Laurel Glen cabernet sauvignon
($25), 2008 Château Musar
Blanc ($15) or a 1964 Cossetti
Clemente Barolo ($40). -P.J.C.
13456 Ventura Blvd.,
Sherman Oaks; 818-990-0938;
augustinewinebar.com
26
WINE & SPIRITS
From Ori Menashe and Genevieve Gergis of Bestia, Bavel is a
destination for Middle Eastern
flavors such as urfa, amba and
za'atar. Wine director Ryan Ibsen
reaches from Mendocino to
Morocco for his daily-changing
list; if you're curious about varieties like baga, mavrotragano or
liatiko, Bavel is the place to try
them. "I generally just put myself
in Ibsen's hands and always get
something tasty," says wine consultant Taylor Parsons. -L.D.
500 Mateo St., Los Angeles;
213-232-4966, baveldtla.com
10
9
10
APRIL 2020
Bon Temps
Bon Temps's alleyway entrance
opens to a dramatic two-level
industrial space, warmed by pendant lights and cooled by a white
marble bar. Everything about
this all-day space feels light and
airy, from chef Lincoln Carson's
brasserie dishes to the wines on
Krystal Kleeman's list. Kleeman,
who honed her wine chops at
Fundamental LA and Stanley's
Wet Goods, favors low-intervention, high-acid bottles from
places like Beaujolais, Friuli and
the Loire Valley-a good many
of them under $100. -S.L.
712 S. Santa Fe Ave., Los Angeles;
213-784-0044, bontempsla.com
AUBURN PHOTO BY ELODIE BOST; BAVEL BY NICOLE FRANZEN; BON TEMPS BY SIERRA PRESCOTT
Auburn is minimal and serene,
as meditative as any Hollywood
restaurant can be. Eric Bost takes
a novel approach to the tasting
menu, offering a permutation
of dishes arranged in a grid; the
courses arrive when you want
them to; sometimes the sea
bream and citrus fern comes to
three diners at three different
times in the meal. This makes
for a pairing jigsaw puzzle for
wine director Rick Arline, which
he addresses with a small but
incisive arsenal of wines, like the
laser-bright Crémant de Bordeaux from Bourdieu, or Arnaud
Lambert's monopole Saumur,
Clos Mazurique. -P.J.C.
6703 Melrose Ave.,
Los Angeles; 323-486-6703,
auburnla.com
http://www.auburnla.com
http://www.baveldtla.com
http://www.augustinewinebar.com
http://www.bontempsla.com
Wine & Spirits - April 2020
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - April 2020
Contents
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 1
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 2
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 3
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 4
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - Contents
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Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - Cover3
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