Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 28

13
Chi Spacca

11
Broken Spanish
Just steps from the Staples Center, Broken Spanish offers a
menu that spans Mexico from
the mountains to the coast; it
also sports an impressively deep
selection of wines from Mexico's
Valle de Guadalupe, including
standouts like Confabulario,
Solar Fortún's blend of mourvedre and petit verdot. -L.D.
1050 S. Flower St., Los Angeles;
213-749-1460, brokenspanish.com

12
Cassia
Cassia is the sister restaurant
to Esters, the neighboring wine
shop. Chef Bryant Ng combines
Vietnamese and French cuisine,
as in his signature dish, a Vietnamese pot-au-feu scented with
cinnamon and star anise, or
prawns bathed in Fresno chiles,
garlic and Vietnamese hot sauce.
All the spice gives Marianna
Caldwell an excuse to indulge
in her love for high-acid, mineral-focused wines; she's built a
reputation as a go-to source for
riesling, covering the breadth of
France, Germany and Austria.
"I started going here because of
Marianna," says Roderick Daniels of Perle in Pasadena. "Her
love of riesling is perfect for the
restaurant." -S.L.
1314 7th St., Santa Monica;
310-393-6699, cassiala.com

Chi Spacca is part of what's
known as the Mozzaplex, three
restaurants from Nancy Silverton and Joe Bastianich on Highland and Melrose. Osteria Mozza
is formal; the Pizzeria is not. Chi
Spacca is the middle ground-a
meat-centric restaurant dominated by a massive wood-fired
grill. All Mozzaplex wine programs are overseen by Sarah
Clarke and based on the Osteria's voluminous list; Chi Spacca,
however, boasts an extra page of
library wines, mostly red, chosen with an eye toward thick,
marbled steaks, dry-aged duck
breasts, porcini-powder-rubbed
short rib and the like. -P.J.C.
6610 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles;
323-297-1133, chispacca.com

11

14
Dama
Dama sits in a small culinary
warren off San Julien Street in
the Fashion District of DTLA,
near Rossoblu and Cognoscenti
Coffee. Here Antonia Lofaso
directs her menu toward the
Caribbean and the Gulf: Flavors are bright, vaguely tropical,
flecked with fresh herbs, salsas
and pickled vegetables. Taylor
Grant's wine list emphasizes
high-acid wines with an Iberian cast-mencía, listán negro,
trousseau and tempranillo-
and thoroughly overdelivers on
Champagne. -P.J.C.
612 E. 11th St., Los Angeles;
213-741-0612,
damafashiondistrict.com

14

15
Dudley Market
Do not drive to Dudley Market.
Trying to park near this small
surf shack, just steps from the
Venice Boardwalk, will lead to
pure misery. Bike, skateboard or
hail a Lyft; you won't regret it.
The menu is driven by whatever

17

18

BROKEN SPANISH AND HERE'S LOOKING AT YOU PHOTOS BY JENN EMERLING;
28

WINE & SPIRITS

APRIL 2020

CASSIA BY RICK POON; HATCHET HALL BY GARI ASKEW


http://www.chispacca.com http://www.brokenspanish.com http://www.damafashiondistrict.com http://www.cassiala.com

Wine & Spirits - April 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - April 2020

Contents
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 1
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 2
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 3
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 4
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - Contents
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Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - Cover4
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