Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 29

chef Conner Mitchell and his fellow fishermen have line-caught
that day, like tuna or rockfish.
Evelyn Goreshnik's wine list is
similarly focused, deep in highacid whites like Wenzel Furmint from Austria's Burgenland
or Massican's Italianate blend,
Gemina. Also check out "Mom's
Champagne Closet," a list of
killer farmer fizz contributed by
wine consultant and part-owner
Taylor Grant. -P.J.C.
9 Dudley Ave., Venice;
310-392-0825

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Faith and Flower
Inside Faith and Flower you'll
find ornate chandeliers, emerald green goblets dotting each
table and vintage books repurposed as menus. The cuisine
reflects a similar opulence, with
dishes like lobster vol au vent, or
oxtail agnolotti in bone-marrow
butter topped with beef tendon chicharrones. Wine director Jared Hooper's list is a mix
of old world and new, so that
a Seth Kunin Pape Star Rhônestyle blend coexists with a range
of bottles from Pessac-Léognan. Stick around for a digestif; Hooper has assembled one
of the city's deepest arrays of
amari. -L.D.
705 W. 9th St., Los Angeles;
213-239-0642,
faithandflowerla.com

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Gjelina

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This Venice institution on
Abbott Kinney is likely to
undergo changes since chef-partner Travis Lett left last November, but the wine program
remains intact: Henry Beylin
explores trending regions and
scours wine fairs with the goal
of discovering small producers,
like Campi Flegrei in Campania,
that he can direct-import for his
properties. Those properties now
include Gjusta, the company's
lively day-spot near Gold's Gym

in Venice, which recently got its
license to sell wine-just a handful of bottles, enough to make a
long patio lunch longer. -P.J.C.
1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice;
310-450-1429, gjelina.com

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Hatchet Hall
An airy Culver City space with a
menu inspired by 19th-century
American cuisine, Hatchet Hall is
a place to feast on smoked trout
with rye pancakes, spoonbread
with wood-roasted mushrooms
or wild boar ribs with fermented
greens. The flavors are wild and
robust; to match, wine director
Ron Almgren pours things like
Harrington's El Dorado mourvedre and Populis carignane. After
dinner, retire to the Old Man
Bar, where you can listen to vinyl
and sip one of the many brown
spirits in their collection. -P.J.C.
12517 W. Washington Blvd.,
Culver City; 310-391-4222,
hatchethallla.com

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Here's Looking at You
Owners Jonathan Whitener and
Lien Ta first met while working for the meat-centric Animal in Hollywood, which may
offer insight into the decadence
of their menu at HLAY. They
define it as progressive SoCal,
combining Asian, Mexican and
American-Southern influences to
create dishes such as their signature tomahawk pork chop grilled
al pastor. Danielle Françoise
Fournier has created a focused
list of wines that trend to the
clean side of the natural spectrum-like the 2016 Raúl Pérez
La Poulosa mencía from Bierzo,
Spain, which has enough tart red
fruit to keep up with whatever
meat calls to you. -S.L.
3901 W. 6th St., Los Angeles;
213-568-3573,
hereslookingatyoula.com

WINE & SPIRITS

APRIL 2020

29
http://www.gjelina.com http://www.hatchethallla.com http://www.faithandflowerla.com http://www.hereslookingatyoula.com
Wine & Spirits - April 2020

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