Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 33

orange-blue walls and printed
vinyl tablecloths. But the energy
is thoroughly LA, right down
to the wine list: Yenbamroong's
wife, Sarah, has gathered plenty
of natty glou glou to tame the
often fiery spice, like Laurent
Saillard's Lucky You, a nervy
white from the Loire. -S.L.
WeHo (West Hollywood), Song
(Silver Lake) and Sahm (Venice);
nightmarketsong.com

34
NoMad Los Angeles
On the ground floor of the
NoMad Hotel, this restaurant is
one of the city's most luxurious
dining spaces, a hushed room
lined with dark crushed velour
and heavy curtains. It also boasts
one of city's largest wine selections, with 4,000 bottles, including 750 Champagnes. Wine
director Ryan Bailey makes sure
everything is well priced, and his
glass program is especially deep
and dreamy, with options like a
Harmand-Geoffroy 2013 Mazis
Chambertin Grand Cru ($59) or
Qupé's 2005 Bien Nacido Syrah
($33). -P.J.C.
649 S. Olive St., Los Angeles;
213-358-0000, nomadhotel.com

NOMAD LA BY LIZ CLAYMAN; ORIEL BY STERLING REED

Onda
Onda is a joint venture between
Gabriela Cámara (Contramar,
Cala) and Angeleno chef Jessica
Koslow (Sqirl), presenting farreaching interpretations of Mexico's culinary traditions mostly
through vegetables and grains.
Minneapolitan Erin Rolek, formerly of that city's groundbreaking Bachelor Farmer, has assembled a list dominated by white,
amber and pink, including bottlings such as a soulful chenin
from Gail in Sonoma, or Singulier, a skin-contact riesling-pinot
gris blend made by Mathieu
Deiss at Vignobles du Rêveur in
Alsace. -P.J.C.
700 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica;
310-620-9917, onda.la

36
Oriel
Tucked away in the shadows of
the elevated Gold Line in LA's
Chinatown, Oriel has a noir feel,
its contours bordered by glowing pink neon. The rose-colored
theme extends into the minimalist dining room, where the rumble of trains sometimes disrupts
conversation. Don't let that
distract you, though. Evan Algorri's French bistro classics, like
loup de mer crisped in butter,
finished with lemon and served
on creamy mashed potatoes,
find their match in Alain Jeu's
wine program, which is small,
well-priced, all French and more
about crushable rosé than highend Bordeaux. -L.D.
1135 N. Alameda St., Los Angeles;
213-253-9419
orielchinatown.com

37
Otium
Otium sits in the shadow of the
Broad Museum, near Disney
Hall in DTLA. They share valets
and a parking garage, and the
museum certainly lends a contemporary feel to the restaurant, as does chef Timothy Hollingsworth, who trained at The
French Laundry. Hollingsworth's
menu darts through Italy, Asia,
Germany and the Middle East,
sometimes on the same plate.
To meet the abundance, Andrew
Pettingell has grown the wine
program dramatically since the
restaurant opened in 2016. It's
now close to 600 labels, with
remarkable range: Where else
can you find Raveneau Chablis
alongside macabeu from the
Roussillon, or Château Pétrus
as well as Pax Mahle's California
valdiguié, or pinot noirs from
Smockshop Band in the Columbia Gorge on the same page as
Kosta Browne's? -L.D.
222 S. Hope St., Los Angeles;
213-935-8500; otiumla.com

WINE & SPIRITS

APRIL 2020

http://www.nightmarketsong.com http://www.orielchinatown.com http://www.nomadhotel.com http://www.onda.la http://www.otiumla.com

Wine & Spirits - April 2020

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