Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 46

46

WINE & SPIRITS

APRIL 2020

MAP BY DERIK HOBBS

It's

easy to stay on course to Anderson Valley despite it being a long way from most
anywhere-past Sonoma's Cloverdale on
Highway 101, past Mendocino's Yorkville
Highlands on Highway 128. By the time
you've entered the Valley at Boonville,
then made it through the middle of Philo
and on to Navarro, the area called the
Deep End has earned its name.
That name originates from Boontling,
a dialect created among Boonville locals
in the 1800s. It's amusing, even satisfying,
that what was once considered the outskirts of town, an
exile place for rejects, is now one of California's increasingly
sought out sites for pinot noir, not only for Anderson Valley producers but also for those in Sonoma drawn to the
coast as a whole, including Anthill Farms, Lioco, Littorai,
Radio-Coteau and Williams Selyem.

Before the Deep End was the focal point of Anderson Valley, it drew in winemakers like Milla Handley, who bonded
Anderson Valley's fifth winery in 1982, when she was still
producing wine in her home basement. "I have these great
photos of her where she's racking a barrel of wine in her slippers and house dress with dogs underfoot," says her youngest daughter, Lulu McClellan.
Lulu was born in 1986, the same year her mother planted
their estate vineyard. The vineyard was very much a focal
point of her childhood: The school bus dropped her off
there every day, because their home, another four miles
up the road, was too far to reach. She often didn't see her
mother in August and September, when Milla was whisked
away by the demands of harvest.
After studying environmental education and activism at
UC Berkeley, followed by spells in Peru and Maine, Lulu
eventually felt a pull toward home again. "It took me a
little while to realize we had a farm," says Lulu. "But when



Wine & Spirits - April 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - April 2020

Contents
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - Cover1
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Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 1
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Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - Contents
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Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - Cover3
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