Wine&S & pirits contents april 2020 VOLUME 39 NUMBER 2 44 features 22 WHEN SMOKE GETS IN YOUR WINE 36 FURMINT'S ROYAL RESTORATION As fire seasons and growing seasons collide, the wine industry is looking for smoke protection. Jamie Goode reports. David Schildknecht visits producers along Austria's border with Hungary, where furmint is reasserting its historic role in exceptional wines. 42 #GOGAMAYGO 44 THE FACES OF ANDERSON VALLEY Could gamay usurp pinot noir as Ontario's great red wine grape? Jamie Goode considers the possibilities. PINOT NOIR With a track record for great pinot noir, Anderson Valley growers are collaborating on research into the valley's distinct terroirs. Sydney Love reports from the Deep End. WINE & SPIRITS APRIL 2020 5