Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 52

31 URANT
s t AL
ANNU

RESTA

FINDING VALUE IN
THE CLASSICS

JOE DELISSIO
The River Café
B ROOKLYN , NY

The top wines have gotten ridiculously expensive. It's
gotten too crazy. It's made some of my favorite wines
the best values: Non-vintage Champagne and Chablis.
The whole Champagne thing is funny. We have quite
a few Champagnes at $100 or under, whereas Kistler
chardonnay is going to cost you $150 plus now. I'm not
knocking Kistler, but that style of chardonnay, to me,
is one of the furthest things away from a food wine,
whereas a Champagne accommodates so many more
things on a menu, as does Chablis, Burgundy or Rioja.
There's a reason the classics are the classics.

As sommeliers sought out ever more esoteric and
affordable wines for their guests after the Great
Recession, the varietal tally of the most popular
wines increased dramatically-until this year, when
the data indicated a significant drop. Instead of
esoterica, sommeliers note that their guests-and
they-are looking for wines from traditional growing regions, such as Burgundy, Bordeaux, Rioja and
Napa Valley.

AS A PERCENTAGE OF RESTAURANT'S TOTAL SALES, OVERALL WINE SALES HAVE...
100%
INCREASED

80%
60%
40%

STAYED THE SAME

20%

DECREASED

'93

'94

'95

'96

'97

'98

'99

'00

'01

'02

'03

'04

'05

'06

'07

'08

'09

'10

'11

'12

'13

'14

'15

'16

'17

'18

'19

DURING THE LAST QUARTER OF THE YEAR, AVERAGE WINE LIST PRICES HAVE...
100%
80%
60%

INCREASED

40%
STAYED THE SAME
20%

DECREASED

'97

52

'98

'99

'00

WINE & SPIRITS

'01

'02

APRIL 2020

'03

'04

'05

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'07

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Wine & Spirits - April 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - April 2020

Contents
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 1
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 2
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 3
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 4
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 6
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 7
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 8
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - 9
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Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - April 2020 - Cover4
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