Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 75

IMPORTED NEW RELEASES
tling, from a limestone-based vineyard in
the southern end of Nierstein, is racy and
elegant, driven by a lovely, sparkling acidity.
As brisk as it is, the limey fruit feels plump
and juicy, lasting for minutes after each sip.
-T.Q.T. ¤ Winesellers, Niles, IL
276828

91 | Wittmann

$34

2018 Rheinhessen Niersteiner Riesling
QbA Trocken ^ Working biodynamically, with
spontaneous ferments in large casks, Philipp
Wittmann turned out a richly textured,
deeply flavorful dry QbA in 2018. It feels
almost meaty in its extract, with a lip-sticking
gingery spice; it's also entirely savory, with a
pale cereal-grain nuttiness. Restrained and
elegant, this is a riesling for sushi. -T.Q.T. ¤
Loosen Bros. USA, Salem, OR
274496

90 | Georg Albrecht
Schneider

$19

2018 Rheinhessen Niersteiner Hipping
Riesling Spätlese ^ From a vineyard of red
slate, this is ripe and rich in sweet lemon and
quince flavors, with a vein of bright acidity
that gives it structure. It's not complex but
it is delicious, especially with a spicy shrimp
stir-fry. -T.Q.T. ¤ Winesellers, Niles, IL
276836

90 | Wittmann

$36

2018 Rheinhessen Westhofener Riesling
QbA Trocken ^ Sourced from Westhofen's
limestone slopes, this is round in the middle, with concentrated citrus flavors; then
the mineral notes seem to gather that flavor,
lengthening it into a steady, dry finish. Give
it a year or three in the cellar to settle into
itself. -T.Q.T. ¤ Loosen Bros. USA, Salem, OR
274498

88 | Binz

$14/1L

2018 Rheinhessen Nackenheimer Riesling
QbA Trocken (Best Buy) ^ This is an easy, flexible riesling, balanced between plump citrus
flavors and racy, dry acidity, with a little petrol earthiness. -T.Q.T. ¤ Winesellers, Niles, IL
274494

87 | Georg Albrecht
Schneider

$15

2018 Rheinhessen Nierstein vom Kalk
Riesling Kabinett Trocken (Best Buy) ^ A
selection of riesling grown on limestone,
this is rich in pineapple and pear flavor, and
snappy with bright, tight acidity. It feels a
little hot and spicy, wanting a chill before
pouring with pad Thai. -T.Q.T. ¤ Winesellers,
Niles, IL
276837

87 | Wittmann

$16

2018 Rheinhessen 100 Hills Dry Riesling QbA (Best Buy) ^ Floral and limey, this
contrasts its ripe citrus flavors with zingy

pith notes. Give it a chill for a Cobb salad.
-T.Q.T. ¤ Loosen Bros. USA, Salem, OR
276941

90 | Karl Haidle

$78

GE RMANY RED

2016 Württemberg GG Berge Stettener
Mänchberg Lemberger ^ Mänchberg is a
warm vineyard, a southeast-facing parcel
protected by the Schurwald mountain range.
That warmth comes through in this wine's
lush strawberry-syrup concentration. Notes
of tobacco, spice and herbs give it lift and
highlight the acidity. Serve it with a light
chill. -T.Q.T. ¤ Schatzi Wines, NY

AHR

HUNGARY

86 | Schlink Haus

$10

2018 Rheinhessen Landwein Riesling
(Best Buy) ^ A soft, gentle riesling, this is limey
and clean, and not cloying-a bargain at $10.
-T.Q.T. ¤ Wein-Bauer, Franklin Park, IL

277248

93 | Julia Bertram

277187
$28

90 | Oremus

$45/500ml

2017 Ahr Handwerk Spätburgunder ^ Julia
Bertram farms 17 acres of pinot noir in a
range of parcels along the Ahr. The mix
includes many selections of vines of different ages, most of them old, including some
planted by Bertram's grandmother. This
bottling, however, comes from her younger
vines, all farmed organically and vinified
with ambient yeasts. Aged for a year in barrels she bought from pinot-noir stronghold
Meyer-Näkel, the wine is smoky, earthy and
elegant right out of the bottle, and gets only
more so with a day of air. The flavors grow
deeper and gamier, with a roast beef---like
edge. The fine tannins feel like they've been
whipped into the cherry fruit, giving the wine
a creamy texture. Although this is Bertram's
simplest wine, it's deserving of a place in the
wine cellar, and will make a dinner of duck
legs positively celebratory. -T.Q.T. ¤ Schatzi
Wines, NY

2018 Terre del Volturno Verginiano Pallagrello Bianco ^ Cesare Avenia and his
team work exclusively with native varieties
at their organically farmed ten-acre estate in
the northern sector of Campania. This juicy,
refreshing pallagrello bianco opens with flavors of golden apple and preserved lemon
tinged with salty notes of tarragon and dried
basil. -S.J. ¤ Schatzi Wines, NY

WURTTEMBERG

FRIULI

277369

92 | Karl Haidle

2014 Tokaji Aszú 3 Puttonyos ^ Mediumsweet for Tokaji, this has notes of honey,
lemon and peach. A touch of earth and tealike tannins rein in the sweetness, and give it
the cut to match with a buttery pound cake.
-T.Q.T. ¤ Europvin USA, Van Nuys, CA

ITALY WHITE
C A M PA N I A
277367

90 | Il Verro

$29

277042
$36

2017 Württemberg Stettener Häder Lemberger ^ Moritz Haidle is the third generation
of his family to run this winery in Germany's
south, just 30 minutes outside of Stuttgart.
Red wines rule here, with lemberger (blaufränkisch) being one of the region's most
important varieties. This bottling comes
from an east-facing parcel of heavy marl
soils, the vines farmed organically and the
fruit macerated for three to four weeks before
Haidle transfers it into neutral barrels with
the lees. The wine feels cool and bright when
first poured, with tart, peppery strawberry
flavors that beg for a chill and some charcuterie. If you give it more time in the glass,
or another day in bottle, a deeper, darker
sense of fruit emerges, elegant and savory.
Buy a case so that you can drink some right
away, and cellar a few bottles, too. -T.Q.T. ¤
Schatzi Wines, NY
277372

87 | I Magredi

$17

2018 Friuli Grave Sauvignon Blanc (Best
Buy) ^ Lemony acidity brings out this wine's
flavors of grapefruit, tangerine and white
peach. Light and zesty, it's a match for mild
fish or summer salads. -S.J. ¤ Seaview Imports,
Port Washington, NY

UMBRIA
276761

95 | Marchesi Antinori

$60

2018 Umbria Castello della Sala Cervaro
della Sala ^ The moderate 2018 growing season yielded a Cervaro of outstanding vivacity
and balance. Barrel-fermented chardonnay
comprises the majority of the blend, contributing a sleek texture as well as notes of
toasted hazelnut and vanilla bean that enrich
the crisp apple and pear flavors. A small percentage of stainless-steel-aged grechetto adds
fresh acidity to balance the wine's subtle
spice and gingery warmth. Delicious now for
its combination of richness and verve, this
WINE & SPIRITS

JUNE 2020

Wine & Spirits - June 2020

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