Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 33
Rising Black Voices in Wine
RISING VO ICE
Etinosa
Emokpae
Wine Director, Friday Saturday Sunday, Philadelphia, PA
"She's magnificent," said Jerri Banks at Jansen in Philadelphia. "You
could tell by the way she spoke-so much knowledge and fascination
for wine." Banks was talking about Etinosa Emokpae, whom she met
at a Champagne tasting before Covid-19 shut down the city. ("We do
alway end up coming together," Banks quipped about Black people at
wine tastings.)
Banks's reaction was no surprise to us-before Emokpae decamped
for Philadelphia, she was living in NYC, running the panel tastings at
Wine & Spirits with spectacular efficiency and grace, then heading off
to work at Lafayette. She'd been in the industry only a short time, having started at Shake Shack before moving on to Untitled and Maialino,
two of Union Square Hospitality's more wine-focused restaurants.
"At the time, I really only knew of two Black people in wine, Lee
Campbell and DLynn Proctor," Empokae recalls. "Lee, in particular,
was inspiring to me-she was an incredible voice in the natural wine
world. Listening to her on Levi Dalton's "I'll Drink to That," I started
to believe that there was a place for Black women in wine." That place
is at the top: She just recently stepped into the role of wine director at
Friday Saturday Sunday. -T.Q.T.
RI S I N G VO I C E
Bianca
Sanon
GM & Sommelier, Boia De, Miami, FL
Bianca Sanon got into wine during her seven years in NYC, having worked the floor at Dirty French and then at Semilla, which had a
list focused on natural wines. At one time, facing microaggressions at
work, Sanon Googled "black women in natural wine" and connected
with sommelier Lee Campbell, then known for her natural-wine list at
Reynard in Brooklyn, and for co-organizing The Big Glou, NYC's first
natural wine fair. "She was the whisper behind my back when it was
easy to second-guess myself," Sanon says.
Not long after, Sanon left NYC to tour France's countryside and, in
December 2017, returned to her home state of Florida. She spent the
next year situating herself in Miami's wine scene-until January 2019,
when she was hired to build the wine program at Boia De. It's caused
some waves, as it's focused on natural wines. "I want to show people
in Miami what casual fine dining with natural wine can look like," says
Sanon. "[Bianca] felt that [Miami] needed more of a wine presence,"
says Oakland-based sommelier Jirka Jireh, who met Sanon at Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels when they both lived in NYC. "She's now a
mentor, educator and leader in the city she loves." -S.L.
WINE & SPIRITS
OCTOBER 2020
33
Wine & Spirits - October 2020
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2020
Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 1
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 2
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 3
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 4
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 6
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 7
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 8
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 9
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 10
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 11
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 12
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 13
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 14
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 15
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 16
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 17
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 18
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 19
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 20
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 21
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Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 23
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 24
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Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 33
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Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - Cover4
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