Wine&S & pirits contents october 2020 VOLUME 39 NUMBER 5 28 features TOP ILLUSTRATIONS BY MATT WILLIAMS 16 20 22 PACIFIC CHARDONNAY Three top sommeliers consider the recent transformation of chardonnay in California and Oregon's coastal hills. AN INSIDER'S LOOK AT MOUNT ETNA Stephanie Johnson interviews Benjamin North Spencer about the Sicilian volcano that's become his muse and his home. 24 VICTORIA'S SIDE-HUSTLES 28 RISING BLACK VOICES IN WINE Max Allen finds that some of the most exciting wines from his home region are the side-projects from established vintners. These 15 trailblazers and 12 up-and-comers are names you should know in the wine world. PRIORAT'S THIRD WAVE Miquel Hudin reports on a new style of wine coming out of the mountains in northeast Spain. WINE & SPIRITS OCTOBER 2020 5