Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 60
FOCUS: BURGUNDY
M E U R S A U LT
M O N TA G N Y
278086
93 | Pascal Clément
278347
$125
2018 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes
Chardonnay ^ Pascal Clément, born into a
family of growers in Savigny, worked in vineyards and winemaking before starting his
own négociant firm in 2012. He works with
fifteen growers, selecting the parcels where
he wants to buy his fruit and farming them
himself. This wine has the powerful richness
of Charmes, from lower down the slope of
the hill, offering a subtle layering of chalk,
brioche, hazelnut cream and ginger. The flavors are layered and interwoven in the way
that a slow fermentation with ambient yeasts
will give. Clean and delicious now, this will
develop for years in bottle. § Valkyrie Selections, Healdsburg, CA
278081
93 | Lucien Le Moine
$200
88 | Vignerons de Buxy
$22
2017 Montagny Buissonnier (Best Buy) ^
Mild and waxy at first, this develops flavors
of orange zest and caramel, along with a lasting chamomile spice. It feels cool and savory,
a match for roast veal. § Regal Wine Imports,
Moorestown, NJ
PERNAND-VERGELESSES
278074
92 | Louis Jadot
$46
2017 Pernand-Vergelesses Les Combottes
(Best Buy) ^ Part of Jadot's Domaine Gagey,
this is a lively Pernand with delicious yellow
fruit flavors and a rich raw-almond character.
It's spicy, cool and lasting, sustaining fresh
fruit flavors for days. § Kobrand, Purchase, NY
278367
92 | Pierre Meurgey
$102
2017 Meursault 1er Cru Les Gouttes d'Or ^
This wine's dense fruit richness bursts out of a
silken, mineral structure. The oak presence is
significant, but the wine readily absorbs that
oak with air. This is Meursault in all its delicious elegance, a classic wine that captured
the imagination of the Meursault enthusiasts
on the panel. § Vintus, Pleasantville, NY
278046
2017 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Sous
Frétille ^ Quiet richness pervades this satisfying wine, its time in oak taking the lemoncream flavors in the direction of marzipan
and fresh croissant. A full-bodied Pernand,
it carries its weight with grace. § Banville Wine
Merchants, NY
278366
91 | Domaine Roux
$109
90 | Domaine Jean
Monnier & Fils
2018 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Les
Caradeux ^ A broad, rich wine focused on
roasted hazelnut flavors, this has the classic
profile of a Burgundy grown in the middle of
an east-facing limestone hillside, in this case,
one not far from the Corton hill. The interaction of the oak and fruit is still incipient,
needing cellar time to evolve. § Vintus, Pleasantville, NY
$63
2017 Meursault ^ Fragrant with springtime
scents of apple blossoms and meadow flowers, this has a masa-like white corn character
to its flavors. The fruit hints at ginger, pear
and chamomile; a luscious white to pour for
pork roasted with apples. § Opici Wines, Glen
Rock, NJ
278375
2016 Meursault Clos du Cromin ^ A soft,
round Meursault with mineral power underneath, this has rich flavors of quince and honeyed pear, tightened up by a hint of green
reduction. Pour it with fried soft-shell crabs. §
Artisanal Cellars, White River Junction, VT
278544
90 | Maison Roche
de Bellene
$96
2018 Meursault Vieilles Vignes ^ Bright and
sunny, this is a wholesome Meursault from
vines ranging in age from 48 to 62 years old.
There's a leesy toasted-grain scent, the wine
youthfully simple and welcoming. Accessible now, this will gain depth and detail with
a few years in the cellar. § Loosen Bros. USA,
Salem, OR
60
WINE & SPIRITS
OCTOBER 2020
91 | Domaine Chanson
$75
P O U I L LY - F U I S S E
278083
ferments in enameled tanks, half in used
oak barrels, the two elements combining
in a fresh chardonnay with green pear and
creamy chamomile notes, light, layered and
persistent. For a bowl of fresh clams steamed
in white wine. § Kobrand, Purchase, NY
278043
91 | Domaine J.A. Ferret
$56
2017 Pouilly-Fuissé Tête de Cru Le Clos ^
Domaine Ferret farms these vines between
its cellar and the church of Fuissé, 1.65 acres,
half of which are more than 40 years old, the
other half 20. The topsoil is thin, sending the
vine roots directly into limestone and shale,
creating a firm and powerful Pouilly-Fuissé.
This vintage is structured, building on its
buttercream richness with depths of mineral and grape-skin savor. The clean structure sets it up for long development in the
cellar. § Kobrand, Purchase, NY
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET
278102
95 | Jean-Louis Chavy
$120
94 | Jean-Louis Chavy
$130
94 | Jean-Louis Chavy
$130
2016 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les
Folatières ^ Jean-Louis Chavy farms 1.27 acres
of vines in Folatières, some dating back to
the 1960s. His 2016 marries intensity and
grace in a joyous yellow-plum reveal. Each
day, as I went back to taste this wine, it kept
adding layers, starting from a rather starkly
dry, white game-and-nutmeat savor, moving
through an umami moment of mushrooms
and Vegemite, all the while building on luscious power until it became delicious on day
three, and a saturated beauty on day four,
shimmering with gingery freshness. It's substantial, meaty enough to serve with roast
partridge, or cassoulet with duck sausage
and white beans; best to cellar it a few years
first, or for many, if you prefer. § Terlato Wines
Int'l, Lake Bluff, IL
278097
93 | Domaine du
Roc des Boutires
$46
91 | Domaine J.A. Ferret
$39
2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières ^ This wine's fresh scent, like a basket of
MacIntosh apples in the fall, competes with
dynamic limestone tension. From a different perspective, it has white-chocolate richness carved by the stony edge of its acidity.
Depths of citrus flavor develop as this opens
to orange and caramelized grapefruit notes,
then lasts with gentle clarity. A clean and fragrant young Puligny, this will reward a few
years of cellar time. § Terlato Wines Int'l, Lake
Bluff, IL
278098
2017 Pouilly-Fuissé Autour de la Roche ^
This is a selection of the domaine's top parcels around the Roche de Vergisson, in the
north of Pouilly-Fuissé. Half of the wine
2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les
Folatières ^ This Puligny is all about up-front
power. The dynamic richness of the wine only
2018 Pouilly-Fuissé Aux Bouthières ^ This
grows at a parcel of 70-year-old vines in
deep clay soils along with shale. It's clean
and densely concentrated, a little severe in
its mineral acidity at first, before that minerality opens to flintiness and the racy fruit
gains juiciness with air. Less than a third of
this wine ages in oak barrels, subtly pointing up the wine's smokiness. It would be delicious with a delicate fish, like Dover sole, in a
buttery sauce. § Wilson Daniels, St. Helena, CA
278042
Wine & Spirits - October 2020
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2020
Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 1
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 2
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 3
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 4
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 6
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 7
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 8
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 9
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 10
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Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - Cover4
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