Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 76

YEAR'S BEST US CABERNETS & BLENDS
scents of clove and cured meat. That mildly
peppery edge lends complexity and intensity
to the dark cassis flavors, which would pair
well with a spicy beef dish, like paprikash.
-P.J.C. (W&S 2/20; 650 cases) §

521905

88 | Castle Rock

521961

90 | Waterbrook

$13

2018 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (Best Buy) ^ This cabernet totally overdelivers in its succulent red-berry fruit and
firm, slightly herbaceous phenolic notes,
grippy but ultimately balanced. It's an excellent foil for lamb chops. -P.J.C. §
521968

89 | Chateau Ste. Michelle

$19

2017 Columbia Valley Mimi Cabernet
Sauvignon (Best Buy) ^ This offers plenty
of fruit and savory intensity, its black-plum
and black-cherry flavors open and succulent,
unencumbered by oak: It's just great flavor
delivered without pretense. -P.J.C. §

521979

89 | High Heaven Vintners

$15

2018 Columbia Valley Majestic Pines Cabernet Sauvignon (Best Buy) ^ Dusty oak creates a sturdy frame that channels this wine's
lush fruit into a velvet-lined sleekness. It's
young and mocha-scented, and could use cellar time before uncorking for lamb. -P.J.C. §
521906

88 | Clone 7

$13

2017 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (Best Buy) ^ This is light and juicy,
buoyed by bright berry scents and mild tannins. It's a simple cabernet for a Wednesdaynight meal of pasta with red sauce. -P.J.C. §

$11

2018 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (Best Buy) ^ This cabernet is a bit rustic,
but it captures the lean elegance of Columbia
Valley fruit. With notes of cherries and sarsaparilla and firm, grippy tannins, it's built for
lamb shoulder. -P.J.C. §

HORSE HEAVEN HILLS
521332

95 | Andrew Will

$78

95 | Andrew Will

$89

2017 Horse Heaven Hills Champoux Vineyard ^ A joyous blend of about 40 percent
each of cabernet franc and merlot (the balance cabernet sauvignon), this amounts to a
return to form for this venerable Washington
winery. Cedary wood notes and dark carob
and blackberry scents lead, and the flavors
fall into line from there: red cherry and red
plum, a shred of tobacco, a prickle of acidity. It radiates vitality, nimble and red fruited,
with a brightness within the structure that
gives it the feel of a Bordeaux varietal wine
unleashed. -P.J.C. (W&S 10/20; 650 cases) §
521335
2017 Horse Heaven Hills Champoux Vineyard Sorella ^ Dominated by cabernet sauvignon, Sorella is dark and ever so slightly
menthol, purple in its fruit expression and
formidable in its tannins. It's massive but
precise, driven by vibrant, persistent acids
that provide inner tension and elegance.
-P.J.C. (W&S 10/20; 635 cases) §
521981

93 | Andrew Januik

$50

2017 Horse Heaven Hills Lady Hawk Cabernet Sauvignon ^ Lady Hawk Vineyard was
planted to cabernet in 2002 by Paul and Judy
Champoux. Andrew Januik gets all five acres.
Like Champoux, it gives fruit with a savory
comportment, as in this wine, with its notes
of turf and tobacco over spiced plum. It's resinous, full of dark fruit and tight, tense tannins. Decant it for lamb stew. -P.J.C. §
518786

92 | Alexandria Nicole

$42

2017 Horse Heaven Hills Alderdale Destiny Ridge Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon ^ A savory, spicy cab, this wine leads with
76

WINE & SPIRITS

DECEMBER 2020

522000

91 | Mercer

$20

2017 Horse Heaven Hills Mercer Bros.
Cabernet Sauvignon (Best Buy) ^ A pleasingly savory cabernet from estate sources
in the Horse Heaven Hills, this leads with
scents of peppercorn and cardamom. Its
sleek red-cherry suite of flavors is surprisingly light and buoyant, with limber texture
and tobacco-scented tannins; for a garlicky
beef stir-fry. -P.J.C. §

522001

91 | Mercer

$25

91 | Alexandria Nicole

$24

2017 Horse Heaven Hills Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Best Buy) ^ An especially
well-priced reserve, this hints at pine, violets
and purple fruit when first poured, becoming smoky and focused with air. It's got good
acidity, and is a touch edgy, with a savor of
cured meat and tobacco that brings to mind
a pairing with steak. -P.J.C. §
518784
2017 Horse Heaven Hills A Squared Cabernet Sauvignon (Best Buy) ^ Trussed by its
tannins, this lean, firm cabernet leads with
anise and cedar scents. The flavors recall
plums dusted with red pepper, with a hint
of mocha and baking spices to complete the
spicy weave. It's impressive for the price;
pour for shaking beef. -P.J.C. (W&S 2/20;
2,400 cases) §
521943

https://www.castlerockwinery.com/trade/#notes https://www.wine.com/product/waterbrook-cabernet-sauvignon-2018/611458 https://www.mercerwine.com/mercer-wine/mercer-bros/ https://www.palmbay.com/producers/high-heaven-vintners/portfolio/majestic-pines-cabernet-sauvignon/2017 https://www.mercerwine.com/mercer-wine/mercer-family-vineyards/

Wine & Spirits - December 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - December 2020