Wine & Spirits - October 2021 - 90

Châteauneuf-du-Pape
ness and freshness that make this so compelling,
and so readily drinkable, especially if
there are some lamb chops around. § Kermit
Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA
93 | Château de
la Font du Loup
$62
2019 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Le Puy Rolland
Vieilles Vignes ^ Le Puy Rolland comes
from a 10-acre plot of 100-year-old grenache
vines in the east of Châteauneuf, where the
coolness of the north-facing slope slows the
ripening of the fruit. Purchased by the Melia
family in 1992 and farmed under organic
principles, the site turned out a fine-boned,
garnet-hued red in 2109. Notes of herbs and
roses lift its red-cherry fruit, and brisk acidity
gives it a lively feel, even while a vein of chocolatey
tannins adds the sort of structure and
density that suggests that this will age well. §
Artisans & Vines, Silver Spring, MD
93 | Dom. Grand Veneur $62
2018 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Le Miocene ^ A
selection from Miocene-era sandstone soils
in the northern end of the appellation, this is
based on grenache vinified solely in stainless
steel; the 30 percent of syrah and mourvèdre
in the blend age in second- and third-use oak
barrels. The result offers both an energetic
pop of red-cherry flavor and a deeper, lasting
complexity of earth and spice that holds
the flavors long and adds succulence. § Kysela
Père et Fils, Winchester, VA
93 | Château Simian
$41
2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Le Traversier
(BEST BUY) ^ Florian Serguier, the fifth generation
to run this estate, helped his father
complete the move to biodynamics, earning
certification in 2011. Today he works
with winemaker Pierre Chaupin, who favors
spontaneous ferments and concrete tanks for
the wines. The approach allows all the detail
in the flavor to show through clearly: The
2017 smells of deep forest and damask rose,
dusty spice and fennel. The plummy fruit has
a slightly baked edge, as if it were concentrated
by the heat of the sun. Still, the wine
feels lithe and silky, the aromatic complexity
accenting its length. § Jenny & François Selections,
NY
92 | E. Guigal
$57
2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge ^ This
has a succulence that's immensely appealing,
its red-berry juiciness on slow release so
that it coats every corner of the mouth. Made
mostly of grenache, blended with mourvèdre
and syrah and aged three years in large oak
foudres, it's readily enjoyable right now, but
90
the sense of stone and herbs that underline
the wine suggest this will only develop more
detail with time. § Vintus, NY
91 | Marius César
$75
2018 Châteauneuf-du-Pape ^ A brand
from Wine Artisans, a wine brokerage firm
founded in 2019, this is gentle, earthy, and
ripe, with leather and truffle scents on its soft
black raspberry flavors. A little herb adds lift.
Its richness will calm the spice of a Massaman
curry. § W.Direct, Lawrence, KS
91 | Clos St-Antonin
92 | Château de
la Font du Loup
$67
$50
2019 Châteauneuf-du-Pape ^ Anne-Charlotte
Melia-Bachas and her husband Laurent
turn out restrained wines from this organically
farmed estate in La Font du Loup, a
high, north-facing lieu-dit just east of La
Crau. A blend of 65 percent grenache with
syrah, mourvèdre and cinsault, the vines
averaging more than 45 years old, this 2019 is
bright as a raspberry in hue and scent. Aged
a year in foudres, then three more in cement
tanks, it feels supple and gauzy, radiating
such freshness in its translucence and minty
lift that it's easy to imagine drinking it all day. §
Artisans & Vines, Silver Spring , MD
92 | Dom. de la Janasse $88
2019 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Chaupin ^
Entirely grenache, this is based on fruit
from a vineyard in the lieu-dit Chaupin that
dates to 1912, the balance made up with grenache
from sandy parcels of La Janasse and
La Crau. It captures the elegant side of grenache,
the wine sunny and lifted, with a salty
cranberry tang to the sweet, soft cherry fruit.
The velvety texture makes it approachable
now. § European Cellars, Charlotte, NC
92 | Domaine du Pégau
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
2018
$70
Cuvée
Réservée ^ Laurence Féraud blends this from
parcels spread throughout Châteauneuf,
encompassing myriad terroirs and grape
varieties. Fermented with ambient yeasts in
whole bunches without temperature control,
the 2018 is a wild ride right now: It's alternately
sweet, soft and charming, balancing
its dark-cherry fruit with an herbal-floral
complexity; it's also seriously tannic, with
a brooding earthiness. It takes several days
to even out, suggesting that this is best left
several years in the cellar before cracking
open for osso buco. § Hand Picked Selections,
Warrenton, VA
WINE & SPIR IT S Oc TO b ER 2021
2019 Châteauneuf-du-Pape ^ The Sabon
family of Domaine de la Janasse bought
this estate in 2013, its 37 acres mostly in
Plan de Dieu-Côtes du Rhône territory-
except for a few in the lieux-dits of La Fond
du Loup and La Crau in Châteauneuf. Filled
out with some fruit from La Janasse's nearby
parcels, the 2019 is dark and rich, its plumand-cherry
flavors wrapped in chocolatey
tannins. Give it another few years in the cellar
to show more of its earthy, herbal detail. §
European Cellars, Charlotte, NC
91 | Dom. Grand Veneur $81
2019 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Origines ^
The Jaume family pulls this wine from vines
on a parcel of red clay studded with large,
round stones. Half grenache, 35 percent
mourvèdre and the rest syrah, it's a powerful
wine, its red-cherry fruit wrapped in layers
of toasty, chocolatey oak and tannins. It's
dense and rich as a flourless chocolate cake,
built for a grilled T-bone. § Kysela Père et Fils,
Winchester, VA
91 | Dom. de l'Arnesque $41
2018 Châteauneuf-du-Pape ^ Marie Biscarrat
and husband Sebastien Pathier pull this
wine from their 11 acres in the northwest
of Châteauneuf, near Mont Redon. Mostly
grenache, and aged one year in 600-liter barrels,
it's a ripe, rich style scented with sandalwood
and spice. Tart notes of rosehips and
herbs emerge with air, adding a refreshing
brightness, and suggesting that this could use
more time in the cellar. § Scoperta, Cleveland
Heights, OH
91 | Domaine de Marcoux $180
2019 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles
Vignes ^ Sophie Armenier pulls this wine
from her family's oldest vines, some planted
more than 100 years ago. Entirely grenache
fermented in tank, then aged in 350-liter barrels
for 18 months, it's a staid red in a traditional
mode, with warm wood scents paneling
the dark cherry fruit, and a whiff of cigar
smoke. Quiet notes of roses and spice add
lift and light to all the darkness, suggesting
the levity that will come with time. § European
Cellars, Charlotte, NC
http://www.artisansandvines.com
Wine & Spirits - October 2021

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