Wine & Spirits - December 2021 - 79

tense green notes of anise, bridging the wine
to a char-grilled steak and grilled fennel. § TriVin,
New Rochelle, NY
91 | Bodegas Olarra
$28
2017 Rioja Reciente Reserva ^ Fresh and
lively, this delicate Rioja delivers flavors of
black currants and blueberries in a minor
key. The fruit is soft and sweet, while the acidity
has a crisp apple edge, giving the wine a
plaintive voice, " like a sad love song, " one
taster said. The flavors are lasting, ready to
pour with roast goat. § Tri-Vin, New Rochelle,
NY
91 | Palacios Remondo
$20
2017 Rioja La Montesa ^ This garnacha's
red fruit feels infused with energy, its gentle
grape-skin tannins keeping it light and open.
It grows at an elevation of 1,800 feet, the fruit
of 32-year-old garnacha vines spontaneously
fermented in stainless steel vats and aged
one year in barrels. NYC-based journalist
Jamal Rayyis noted the " piquant quality of
the wine, like an older Manchego. " § Folio Fine
Wine Partners, Napa, CA
91 | Proelio
$30
2017 Rioja Reserva Vendimia Seleccionada
^ Javier Palacios started this project in
2012; his team sources the fruit for this wine
from a range of parcels where the vines are
between 50 and 80 years old, some near the
river at 1,500 feet of elevation, others in the
mountains at 2,350 feet. The blend creates
an old-fashioned Rioja with cold tempranillo
tannins structuring more modern textures to
the fruit-it feels lush and tight at once. The
baking spice notes of oak add complexity,
lasting with gentle harmony. § Tri-Vin, New
Rochelle, NY
91 | Remelluri
$44
2013 Rioja Alavesa Reserva ^ Brother-andsister
team Telmo Rodríguez (winemaker)
and Amaia Rodríguez Hernandorena (viticulturist)
took over their family's estate in
2009 and gained organic certification for
their vines in 2014. Their vineyards are scattered
through the hills of Sierra de Toloño,
some reaching elevations of 3,100 feet, some
dating back to 1918. The fruit for this Reserva
comes from vines averaging 40 years old,
planted between 1930 and 1989. It ferments
spontaneously then ages in a mix of foudres
and barrels. The fruit is pure berry juice for
now, held in check by hard mineral tannins
that block its length of flavor. This is built to
age, needing time to stretch its muscles and
lengthen out. § De Maison Selections, Chapel
Hill, NC
91 | Viñedos
Wine Spirits&
Sierra Cantabria
$45
2018 Rioja Colección Privada ^ Joyous tempranillo,
this wine's red-fruited freshness
combines red cherry and cherry tomato.
That red fruit lasts along with the meaty
red spice of chorizo. Pour it with a Moroccan
preparation of ground lamb with yogurt. §
Jorge Ordóñez Selections, Dedham, MA
91 | Viñedos
Sierra Cantabria
$160
2018 Rioja Amancio ^ The wood comes first
in scents of toasted barrels. Then the fresh
red- and purple-berry flavors arrive to meet
the oak, yielding scents of black currants and
anise. The tannins are youthfully edgy, dark
and earthy, making this a steak wine if you
open it now. Best to sock it away in the cellar
for a decade. § Jorge Ordóñez Selections, Dedham,
MA
90 | Finca Allende
$35
2015 Rioja Allende ^ Powerfully extracted,
this wine's substantial weight is carried by
green herb notes of acidity, reading as mint
and roasted peppers. One taster described
the wine's perfume as the scent of " wet garden
roses in the morning. " Miguel Angel de
Gregorio grows the grapes at his north-facing
vineyards in Briones, downriver from Haro
in Rioja Alta. It's a wine to cellar, needing
several years to integrate and bring the wild
berry fruit forward. § Trinchero Family Estates,
St. Helena, CA
96-99
ASTONISHING, RARE
A wine that saturates the senses
with flavors that feel unique
and thrilling; a rare landmark
for its region.
93-95
EXCITING, DISTINCTIVE
A wine that transcends simple
typicity to its region or variety-a
vivid, singular expression of place.
90-92
DELICIOUS, COMPELLING
A compelling wine of its
region; a delicious, finessed
expression of a place.
88-89
DELICIOUS, REPRESENTATIVE
Well-made, pleasurable and
true to its region or variety.
90 | Altanza
85-87
$28
2014 Rioja Altanza Familia Reserva ^ Tight
and floral, this is a spicy Rioja with fresh
tomato scents edging its tempranillo tannins.
The fruit is ripe, the tannins a little
vegetal. They come together in a clean and
lovely wine, ready to decant for pork cheeks
with mushrooms. § Eagle Eye Imports, Bloomfield
Hills, MI
BALANCED, CROWD PLEASING
Identifiable in style and regional
character, and qualitatively solid.
80-84
USEFUL
Simple wine that will either
quench thirst or play a useful
role at the table.
Our Score
Definitions
W&S scores are based
on quality and distinctive
regional character,
to help you find delicious
wines grown and
made with integrity.
100
TRANSCENDENT
A wine that speaks directly from
the earth, communicating the
flavors of its place with unequaled
complexity and intensity; it will
offer pleasure for decades.
https://www.bodegasaltanza.com/producto/altanza-reserva-familia/
Wine & Spirits - December 2021

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