Wine & Spirits - December 2021 - 80

Rioja Reds
90 | Bhilar
$30
2016 Rioja Alavesa Phinca El Vedao Garnacha
^ The warmth of garnacha comes
through in this powerful, earthy wine. It
feels fully mature in its brothy beef-andmushroom
flavors, " like a demi-glace, " one
taster said. Still, there's acidity adding energy
to the wine, which seems increasingly lively
as it opens in the glass. Pour it with shredded
duck and black mushrooms. § Regal Wine
Imports, Moorestown, NJ
90 | Burgo Viejo
$19
2019 Rioja Graciano Organic ^ If you were
to macerate strawberries and rose petals,
you might get something that smells like
this wine. Add new oak to that, as well as
graciano's edgy acidity, and you get a bright,
intense red wine desperately seeking morcilla.
§ Kysela Père & Fils, Winchester, VA
90 | Casa Juan
$16
2017 Rioja Señor de Lesmos Crianza ^ This
wine's vibrant richness is based on green
fig and red currant flavors. The tannins are
earthy and as black as obsidian, but they're
not aggressive. This would benefit from a
year in the cellar, or a meaty braise. § David
Bowler Wines, NY
90 | Conde Bel
$26
2011 Rioja Gran Reserva (BEST BUY) ^ A soft
and gentle Gran Reserva with prune-plum
flavors and fruit-skin spice, this is fully
mature and pleasantly rustic, a wine for roast
lamb. § ALT Imports, Coral Gables, FL
90 | Contino
$46
2017 Rioja Reserva ^ Fresh and juicy depths
of boysenberry flavor provide a base to this
wine's layers of cherry skin and damp earth,
as if the bright sun cast its light into an otherwise
dark cellar. It's cool, fragrant and
earthy, a red to serve with grilled suckling
lamb. § Arano USA, Miami, FL
90 | Señorio
de San Vicente
$70
2018 Rioja San Vicente ^ Compressed in its
fruit-skin tannins, this is dark and smoky,
mysterious as a young wine. As it opens, it
yields more distinct flavors of Italian plum
skin and black blueberry skin, needing five
years or more in the cellar for the fruit to
emerge from those tannins. § Jorge Ordóñez
Selections, Dedham, MA
90 | Hammeken Cellars
90 | García Carrión
$13
2017 Rioja Pata Negra Crianza ^ " Like drinking
rocks, " said Jenna May Cass of Départ
Wine in Great Barrington, Mass. The tannins
in this wine have a crushed-granite feel,
while the violet-scented fruit fills them with
juiciness. Match its tough tannins to lamb
chops, their fatty edges seared black on the
grill. § CIV USA, Miami, FL
$25
2018 Rioja Beloki Crianza ^ Chewy cherryskin
tannins meet chocolate richness in this
full-bodied red. It has the depth of fruit that
will appeal to New World wine drinkers, with
the hints of tomato-like tempranillo savor
that place it firmly in Rioja. § MHW, Manhasset,
NY
90 | Luxus One
$25
2018 Rioja ^ The crème caramel scent gives
this an immediate impression of a chocolate-rich
international style. Then the tannins
lengthen out in breathable detail. By
the next day, the wine is less creamy and the
tannins almost austere, firm and lasting on
a meaty savor. Decant this and let it develop
as you braise trotters, or oxtails. § State Wines
Selections, Miami, FL
80
WINE & SPIR IT S
D E c E mb ER 2021
90 | Obalo
$30
2017 Rioja Las Arenas Reserva ^ A ripe and
meaty wine, this offers up quiet intensity and
soft power in scents of figs and red plums.
The tannins meld oak smoke and fruit into
a flavor that brings to mind grilled fennel
sausages, which would match the wine well. §
Aviva Vino, NY
90 | Bodegas Olarra
$40
2018 Rioja Olarra Clásico Reserva ^ Bright
and juicy, this has the brisk, tomato-skin
tension of tempranillo tannins. It's youthful
and simple, with some wood notes that need
air to fully integrate. Decant it for chicken
paella. § Tri-Vin, New Rochelle, NY
90 | Bodegas Olarra
$18
2019 Rioja Añares Crianza ^ This gentle red
" toes the line between fruit and fruit leather, "
as one taster described it. It's brightened by
some orange-zest volatility, lasting on sourcherry
perfume, both the flesh and the skin
of the fruit. For a lamb tagine. § Tri-Vin, New
Rochelle, NY
90 | Bodegas Olarra
$35
2018 Rioja Otoñal Reserva ^ This selection
aged more than a year in cask then 18
months in bottle prior to release, where it
developed leather notes over ripe flavors of
cherries and plums. It lasts on delicate tannins,
silky with anise and black peppercorn
spice. § Tri-Vin, New Rochelle, NY
90 | Bodegas Olarra
$17
2019 Rioja Otoñal Crianza ^ Dark-fruited
and smoky in its scent, this wine's flavors of
tart red apple and toasty persimmon bread
are lean and firm. It's fresh and pleasantly
sweet in the end, a wine for duck prosciutto. §
Tri-Vin, New Rochelle, NY
90 | Bodegas Olarra
$28
2017 Rioja Añares Reserva ^ Sour-cherry
notes lead into this firm and fragrant Rioja,
its oak tannins melding with the fruit character
of bitter blueberry skins and peach close
to the pit. This is clean and juicy, lasting on its
simple fruit clarity. § Tri-Vin, New Rochelle, NY
90 | Bodegas Ondarre
$18
2019 Rioja Rivallana Crianza ^ Tart cherry
and fresh Italian prune plum flavors give
this wine a generous fruit presence that lasts.
The tannins follow that fruit-skin note, ending
with gentle richness. A satisfying tapas
pour. § Tri-Vin, New Rochelle, NY
https://www.wine-searcher.com/find/conde+bel+grand+rsrv+doca+rioja+spain https://www.garciacarrion.com
Wine & Spirits - December 2021

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