Wine & Spirits - December 2021 - 85

Tawny &
Colheita Port
Our blind panels tasted 90 agedesignated
Tawny and Colheita Ports for
this issue. Joshua Greene, our critic for
Port wines, rated as exceptional (90+) and
3 as Best Buys. Find a complete list of
wines tasted and all reviews at
wineandspiritsmagazine.com.
10-YEAR-OLD TAWNY
92 | Ramos Pinto
20 YEAR OLD TAWNY
$39
Porto Tawny 10 Years Quinta de Ervamoira
^ The voluptuous richness implied in
the scent is there in the flavor of this Tawny,
as it turns up the volume on notes of peach
pit, pine nuts and cream. Layered, complex
and satisfying, this ends on toasty warmth
and supple generosity. § Maisons Marques &
Domaines, Oakland, CA
91 | Quinta da Côrte
$50
Porto Tawny 10 Years Old ^ A refined and elegant
Tawny, this integrates notes of orchard
fruit and fresh cream, white flowers and
nutty scents of toast into a bright Port to
serve with crème brûlée, or just to enjoy on
its own. § Wilson Daniels, Napa, CA
90 | Feuerheerd's
$20
Porto Ten-Year-Old Tawny Port ^ Scents of
figgy pudding and schist rise out of this wine,
a tight and delicate 10-year-old with earthy
complexity. Enjoy it with a first course of wild
mushroom soup.§ Regal Wine Imports, Moorestown,
NJ
90 | Barros
$30
Porto 10-Year-Old Tawny ^ Warm up front,
with floral spice, this turns sweet and smooth
in the finish, ending on a complex herbal
note. Serve it chilled in lieu of dessert. § Wine
In-Motion, Newark, NJ
90 | Burmester
$31
Porto 10-Year-Old Tawny ^ Sunny and yellow
plummy, this wine's dynamic richness
and humid-earth bitterness makes it a great
choice for ripe Serra da Estrela cheese. § M.S.
Walker, Somerville, MA
93 | W. & J. Graham's
Derenoncourt makes the wines, this one a
blend of older stocks that's brightened and
emboldened by the cut of apple-skin acidity
and apple blossom notes. Tastings Editor
Corey Warren placed it at a posh country
manor for a pheasant hunt. § Wilson Daniels,
Napa, CA
92 | C. da Silva
$55
Porto Dalva 20-Years-Old Dry White ^ Aged
in old French oak barrels, where it developed
its amber color and light notes of caramel,
this wine's lovely texture carries ripe fruit
flavors of apricots and nectarines. It's well
preserved, sustaining energy to brighten
and deepen the first course of a meal. § Other
Brothers Brands/Grape2Glass, Newark, NJ
91 | Offley
$53
Porto 20-Year-Old Tawny ^ Floral honeycomb
scents rise off this wine's dried fig,
apricot and almond flavors. It's an oxidative
style, the fruit fully mature, lasting with elegance.§
Evaton, Stamford, CT
91 | Ramos Pinto
$69
Porto Aged 20 Years-Tawny ^ Earthy rather
than fruity, this is all about umami, its cool
cellar tones layering dark mushroom and
savory black bean flavors over papaya. It
lasts with intriguing complexity that would
work with a range of umami-rich foods, like
seafood in an XO sauce. § Premium Port Wines,
San Francisco, CA
93 | Sandeman
$65
Porto 20-Years-Old Tawny ^ As a young Port
wine drinker, I grew up on Sandeman's 20
Year Tawny, a wine that always overdelivered
when it came to gingery energy and shimmering
fruit. And though the brand has
changed hands, now part of Sogrape, the
wine still holds its identity, delicately creamy
with lovely floral esters and a zesty feel that
lasts. § Evaton, Stamford, CT
93 | Van Zellers
$80
Porto 20-Years-Old Tawny ^ Laden with
fruit, from pear and kumquat to peach, this
wine's amber lightness offers quiet luxury.
The fruit shades from gold and yellow and
red, its texture both luscious and muscular, a
cool impression lasting to draw you back for
another taste. A Tawny to drink long into the
night. § M.S. Walker, Somerville, MA
92 | Quinta da Côrte
$85
Porto 20-Years-Old Tawny ^ This Cima Corgo
property has been part of Philippe Austruy's
group of wine estates since 2013. Stéphane
D E c E mb ER 2021
WINE & SPIR IT S
85
$73
Porto 20-Year-Old Tawny Quinta do Bom
Retiro ^ From Ramos Pinto's estate across
the river from Pinhão, this wine's complexity
starts from a green tea and dried leaf scent
before it fills the mouth with juicy orange and
rich oak flavors. It builds from austerity to
riches, generous, warm and inviting. § Maisons
Marques & Domaines, Oakland, CA
90 | Barros
$65
Porto 20-Year-Old Tawny ^ Delicate and
fresh, this wine shimmers and shines with
scents of rose and a complex, lovely buzz
of earthy apricot flavors. Simple Tawny elegance.
§ Wine In-Motion, Newark, NJ
90 | C. da Silva
$50
Porto 20-Years-Old Tawny Dalva ^ Saturated
with ripe peach flavor, this is a clean
and simple 20-year-old with some elasticity
to its tannins, allaying the syrupy richness
and keeping it fresh. § Other Brothers Brands/
Grape2Glass, Newark, NJ
90 | Kopke
$70
Porto 20-Year-Old Tawny ^ This wine's sweetness
glazes its schist tannins like rock sugar,
even as it's checked by freshness, in flavors
of plums, dark figs and brighter orange-blossom
scents. Solidly built, this is destined for a
cheese course served with fig compote. § Wine
In-Motion, Newark, NJ
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Wine & Spirits - December 2021

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