Wine & Spirits - Fall 2022 - 63

down the length of the river. Those relationships
have in turn allowed Guigal to build
the estate to its current size, the portfolio
packed with choice parcels from St-Joseph
to Côte-Rôtie. Today, under Marcel's son
Philippe, the winery maintains primacy at
both ends of the market: with affordable
Côtes du Rhône wines built out of grower
relationships they've fostered for decades,
as well as with tiny-production, estate-grown
wines that celebrate the Rhône's most particular
terroirs. With 12 out of 16 wines recommended
this year, nine of those at 90 or
higher, Guigal is one of the most reliably
outstanding brands we know. -T.Q.T.
2017 Ermitage Ex Voto Blanc ($525, 95
points) The Guigals make this wine only in vintages
they consider exceptional, such as the hot,
dry 2017. Made of marsanne with 10 percent
roussanne, the vines ranging from 40 years old
to nearly 100, this was vinified entirely in new,
house-coopered oak barrels, and all of it went
through malolactic conversion. It's a powerful
white wine, golden with notes of caramel and
roasted stone fruit and vibrant with lemony acidity.
At five years old, the wine is still very much
in its youth, wanting a decade in the cellar-
although if you open it now, it would be pretty
great with a gently spicy pumpkin curry.
2019 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc ($57, 95
points) In an opulent, well-upholstered style,
this satiny white wine offers luxurious amounts
of peach and apricot fruit. The flavors last, their
nutty warmth and spicy detail pointing to the
wine's time in oak, the length pointing to the
mineral structure that will keep this vibrant for
years in the cellar.
2018 St-Joseph Lieu Dit Rouge ($75, 97
points) Pulled from the historic heart of the
appellation, where the vines cling to a steep
gneiss-based slope, this is almost forbidding in
its polished, well-oaked façade. Those mahogany
tones course along lean, firm lines, the wine
compact and concentrated, a nugget of dense
black fruit wrapped in tannins and lashed with
notes of licorice and spice. This is built for the
long term.
E. GUIGal'S VINES
ClIMB THE HIllSIDE
IN ST-JOSEPH
F all 202 2
WINE & SPIR IT S
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Wine & Spirits - Fall 2022

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - Fall 2022

Contents
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2022 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2022 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2022 - 1
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2022 - 2
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2022 - Contents
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