Wine & Spirits - Spring 2022 - 63

US Pinot Noirs
the wine's aromas are teeming with complexity-herbs,
chaparral, pine tips, underbrush-but
the fruit within feels at once
light (in tone) and concentrated, with an acid
structure and mineral firmness to the texture
that hints at a long life. -P.J.C. (500 cases) §
94 | Cristom
$75
2019 Eola-Amity Hills Jessie Vineyard
Pinot Noir ^ Jessie is a steep, densely-planted
vineyard established in 1994. The maturity
and the density of the vines yielded a 2019
with assertive fruit character and the textures,
and layers, to support it all. It leads
with fruit, a compelling combination of
plum and dark berry, with clove and cinnamon
accents that recede with air. The flavors
feel generous but not pushy, the wine's lush
intensity held in check by a fine mesh of tannin
and acid. An impressive performance, for
cassoulet. -P.J.C. (769 cases) §
94 | Cristom
$75
2019 Eola-Amity Hills Eileen Vineyard
Pinot Noir ^ Haunting scents of pine and
olive leaf-Oregon's version of garrigue-
lend complexity to a dark and sumptuous
plumminess in this showstopper from Eileen,
Cristom's highest-elevation block-the place
where Van Duzer winds first hit the property.
You can feel the structure produced by those
winds, in the sanguine depth of flavor from
the thick skins of the grapes, but the lasting
impression is one of grace and poise, the
tannins demonstrating a willow-like give.
-P.J.C. (749 cases) §
94 | iOTA
$46
2018 Eola-Amity Hills Pelos Sandberg
Vineyard Pinot Noir (BEST BUY) ^ Pelos Sandberg
Vineyard is nearing 20 years old, a warm
site east of Amity in the Eola-Amity Hills.
The wine reflects that warmth but something-whether
the wind-ripened fruit or
the use of whole clusters-keeps it all in line.
its scents of anise and smoke, notes of violet
and pine overlie flavors that are impressively
deep and saturated. For pork loin. -P.J.C.
(613 cases) §
94 | Lingua Franca
94 | Cristom
$75
2019 Eola-Amity Hills Marjorie Vineyard
Pinot Noir ^ From one of the oldest parcels on
the property, this edition of Marjorie is wildly
savory, leading with olive and smoke, tomato
leaf and humus. It's dramatic at first, then
suddenly inhabited by joyous, darkly vibrant
fruit. The savor is persistent, with a thrilling
integration that suggests a long cellar life.
-P.J.C. (519 cases) §
$50
2019 Eola-Amity Hills Lingua Franca
Estate Pinot Noir (BEST BUY) ^ This is a blend
from multiple parcels at Larry Stone's estate
vineyard. Like Lingua Franca's other 2019s,
it took its time evolving, this one showing
earth, oak and turned soil when first poured,
revealing many nuances over five days tasted,
its earthy black cherry flavors set in a stalwart
tannic structure that opened in subtle
increments each day. Built to cellar. -P.J.C.
(530 cases) §
94 | Lingua Franca
$95
2019 Eola-Amity Hills Mimi's Mind Pinot
Noir ^ For a wine that's exceedingly well-structured,
this has more than its share of sensuality.
It's hard to know what to focus on first;
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94 | Lumos
$55
2019 Eola-Amity Hills Swan Temperance
Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir ^ Dai Crisp draws
this pinot noir from multiple blocks at Temperance
Hill, where he finds that fruit from
the Swan clone lends itself to whole-cluster
fermentation. So, he destems none of it and
the wine responds with dramatic aromatics,
of tea and florals, plum skin and juicy
plum flesh, with a fine tang of wood smoke
in the background. Its flavors are focused and
lean, the fruit linear and elegant, a raspberry
tang that's mouthwatering and fine. Showing
great energy and tension now, it has an
acid structure to sustain it over the course of
a long life. -P.J.C. (48 cases) §
94 | Lumos
$55
2019 Eola-Amity Hills North Temperance
Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir ^ North is one of
Temperance Hill's high-elevation parcels,
an exposed site rising to 850 feet, yielding a
wine of exceptional tension and firm structure.
It starts off opaque, with dusty scents
of strawberry leather and tobacco leaf. After
a day, the flavors become sleek and elegant;
there's surprising concentration to the plum
and strawberry fruit, with an herbal savor
and earthy plum-skin tannins. It's got the
stuff to cellar. -P.J.C. (73 cases) §
https://www.cristomvineyards.com/shop/ https://www.cristomvineyards.com/shop/ https://www.lumoswine.com/lumos-temperance-hill-pinot-noir/ https://www.cristomvineyards.com/shop/
Wine & Spirits - Spring 2022

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