Wine & Spirits - Spring 2022 - 73

Burgundy
what more famous village six miles to the
east. Fruity and brisk, this would be refreshing
with anything from grilled salmon to
duck confit. §
90 | Prosper Maufoux
$24
2019 Hautes Côtes de Beaune ^ With its sourcherry
scents and lasting, coal-black tannins,
this wine has a kind of medieval Burgundian
richness, like a local aristocrat who bathed
only occasionally. Or think of it as a horse
stable, adding a little stinky elegance to the
green herb and tart fruit flavors. Then pour
it with pork rillettes. §
OTHER RECOMMENDED
P. MAUFOUX WHITE
88 | 2019 Hautes Côtes de Nuits Domaine
Vigne au Roy (BEST BUY) .................$25
DOMAINE JEAN-LOUIS
MOTHE
The Mothe family has farmed this domaine
since 1887 and began bottling their own
wines in the 1980s. Three brothers-JeanLouis,
Thierry and Vincent-tend 142 acres
in Chablis. They make their wines in stainless
steel, aging the grand crus in oak barrels
Imported by Scoperta, Cleveland Heights, OH.
WHITES
93 | Domaine Jean-Louis
Mothe
$65
2019 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros ^ Bold
white-peach flavors come up in the finish,
suppressed in the middle by this wine's massive
body. It's fresh enough to carry that
weight, a petrichor note and an oyster-shell
savor apparent in the wine's acidity, layered
within succulent pear and lemon-oil flavors.
After 12 months of aging-20 percent in
oak and the balance in stainless steel-this
wine remains closed off up front, needing
eight to 10 years of bottle age to show itself
completely. §
90 | Domaine Jean-Louis
Mothe
$40
2019 Chablis 1er Cru Vaucoupin ^ Warm and
savory, this is a dense Chablis, the bitterness
of alcohol pointing up its earthy fruit-skin
character. That fruit is perfumed with notes
of baked quince, to serve with something
meaty and fruity, like rabbit braised with
apricots. §
DOMAINE PILLOT
Based in Chassagne-Montrachet, the Pillot
family farms a domaine of more than 35 acres
throughout the Côte de Beaune. Imported by
Taub Family Selections, Port Washington, NY
WHITE
90 | Domaine Pillot
$130
2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Vide
Bourse ^ Notes of honeysuckle and yellow
peach show the ripeness of this wine-it's
fat and happy with a gentleness and ease.
There's spicy acidity underneath that keeps
that broadness restrained, the wine ready to
serve with grilled swordfish. §
RED
90 | Domaine Pillot
$80
2019 Volnay ^ This rich and silken red has an
inner softness to its juicy red-cherry core,
while the tannins bring iron-like edges and
dark grape-skin savor. A few years of cellar
time should bring those elements together
well. §
TOLLOT-BEAUT
DOMAINE VOCORET
Based in Chorey-lès-Beaune, this domaine
dates to the 1880s, now run by cousins
Nathalie, Jean-Paul and Olivier Tollot. They
farm 60 acres, working to sustain old-vine
parcels of pinot fin. Their oak barrels are 20
percent new for most of the wines, about 60
percent new for the grand crus. Imported by
Winebow, NY
WHITE
93 | Tollot-Beaut
The Vocorets' family estate dates to the
1880s, now encompassing 98 acres in the
entire range of Chablis, from Petit to Grand
Cru. Jerome Vocoret manages the vines while
his cousin Patrice oversees winemaking at
their cellars in town. Imported by Terlato
Wines Int'l, Lake Bluff, IL
$250
2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru ^
The muscular shape of this wine is apparent
when you open the bottle, but the flavors are
not, showing little beyond vanilla, the toast
of lees and clay-limestone earthiness. Two
days later, that simple line has expanded,
the flavors completely filling the structure
of the alcohol with hazelnut sophistication
and freshly toasted wheat. This is a young
wine with chardonnay's powerful grip and
riveting force, set to develop for a decade or
more in the cellar. §
REDS
94 | Tollot-Beaut
$175
2019 Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru ^ The
east-facing vines at Bressandes offer a wine
with more delicate intensity than you might
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WHITES
90 | Domaine Vocoret
$45
2019 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon ^ Showing little
more than pithy acidity and textural fullness
at first, this wine gains refreshing depths of
citrus flavors as it opens with air. Notes of
apple skin and lees place it with a braise, like
chicken fricassée; first, give it several hours in
a decanter, or three years in the cellar. §
88 | Domaine Vocoret
$30
2020 Chablis ^ This wine's bold, juicy power
is driven by the broad richness of alcohol,
dressed in scents of toasted baguette, toasted
oats and almond liqueur. Dense and warm,
this is ready to decant for roast veal. l
OTHER RECOMMENDED
TOLLOT-BEAUT REDS
93 | 2019 Corton Grand Cru ................$175
92 | 2019 Aloxe-Corton ......................... $85
92 | 2019 Beaune 1er Cru
Beaune-Clos-du-Roi ...................$115 ^
find in Tollot-Beaut's 2019 Corton (also recommended
here). You can almost taste the
sun on a hill in Burgundy in this young and
joyous grand cru. That youth is present in the
wine's oak scent of vanilla, rich red-cherry
flavors and tangy length. Its future is defined
by the grace and discreet power in that lasting
savor, a wine to test the limits of your
patient cellaring, well worth holding for a
decade or more. §
93 | Tollot-Beaut
$110
2019 Aloxe-Corton Les Vercots ^ The Tollots
farm a mid-slope parcel at Vercots, facing
south, which they recently replanted with a
massal selection. The teenage vines provided
a 2019 with lots of sunny energy, its tannins
roughhousing with summery sour-cherry
and raspberry flavors, the two sides aligning
in an open and racy Burgundy to enjoy over
the next several years. §
Wine & Spirits - Spring 2022

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