Wine & Spirits - Summer 2022 - 54

100 Best for $20 or Less
miles inland from the sea and two miles
north of the Miño, the border with Portugal.
It covers 227 acres, providing albariño,
treixadura, caiño, loureiro and godello for
this simple and dynamic blend. The citrus
flavors, the salinity and the floral notes of
herbs meld in a fragrant wine, tight, easy
and delicious with sashimi. -J.G. § Monsieur
Touton Selection, NY
Casar de Burbia
$18
2019 Bierzo Godello (92 points) ^ Estategrown
in the mountains of Valtuille de Arriba,
this wine's youthful intensity is charged with
the pithy acidity of green lime and ruby-red
grapefruit. It lasts with hibiscus perfume,
needing time in a decanter to settle, as its
citrus power slowly turns toward intriguing
freshness. -J.G. § South River Imports, Edgewater,
MD
CALIFORNIA
101 North
Fetzer
$6
California Chardonnay (88 points) ^ This
wine's juicy apple and pear flavors end on
tart citrus. Chill it for grilled chicken.-P.J.C. §
$8
2019 California Chardonnay (88 points) ^
Pineapple and applesauce flavors meet a mineral,
steely edge of acidity: this is straightforward
California juice-and a steal. -P.J.C. §
NEW YORK
Ravines
$19
2018 Finger Lakes Dry Riesling (94 points) ^
Drawn from White Springs and 16 Falls vineyards,
this riesling shows fusel notes and
phenolic savor, lemon-cordial flavors with
a dusty, zinc-like edge. It's firm and tense,
the lemon and wheat flavors conveyed with a
dramatic immediacy, but the lasting impression
on this wine is its drive, an electric, pulsating
acidity that points to its core structure,
and to a long life in the cellar.-P.J.C. §
OREGON
Acrobat
$13
2019 Oregon Chardonnay (90 points) ^
There's good bang for your buck in this juicy
chardonnay with its aroma of white flowers
and salty texture, all in the service of pear and
almond flavors. -P.J.C. §
Frei Brothers
$20
2019 Russian River Valley Chardonnay
(92 points) ^ Scott Johnsen makes this wine
from six estate vineyards (92 percent of the
blend), offering a supple chardonnay with
succulent golden apple flavors and a gingery
edge. The wine's leesy richness is highlighted
by notes of spring flowers. A lovely young
chardonnay to enjoy on its own. -J.G. §
Fess Parker
$19
2019 Santa Barbara County Chardonnay
(91 points) ^ Big, juicy, lively and rich,
this bursts with tropical notes of peach and
mango, leavened by a smoky savor. The flavors
are indulgent and mouthwatering, with
plenty of youthful movement; a steal for a
midweek meal of grilled fish. -P.J.C. §
Michael Pozzan
$18
2018 Napa Valley Annabella Chardonnay
(90 points) ^ Rich and toasty, this is a luscious
chardonnay that feels mouth cleansing in the
end. Given a little time, its peach and melon
flavors appear fruity rather than sweet, with
bright lemon notes and hints of sweet woodruff.
Pour it with glazed duck. -J.G. §
54
WINE & SPIR IT S
King Estate
$19
2019 Willamette Valley Pinot Gris (89
points) ^ Lemon-lime, apple slices, some
sweet fruit, a tangy finish: What's not to like
about this lean and vibrant gris? It's focused
and bright, a perfect weeknight wine. -P.J.C. §
WASHINGTON
Chateau Ste. Michelle
$9
2020 Columbia Valley Dry Riesling (90
points) ^ Tangy, bright and bursting with
high-acid fruit, this smells of lemon and
apple in some delightful sunny mashup. The
Summ ER 202 2
wine's textures are foursquare and racy, the
flavors juicy and irresistible, a go-to summer
wine and a steal at this price. -P.J.C. §
ROSÉ
FRANCE
Laballe
$17
2020 Côtes de Gascogne Brume Rosé (92
points) ^ According to New York sommelier
LJ Hollins, " This is a gateway rosé, " one he
might serve to those who need to examine
their preconceived notions about the implications
around the color of one's wine. Firm,
floral, spicy, thoroughly cabernet franc, with
a balance of ripeness from merlot that hits
it dead on, this would be a wonderful way
to welcome your guest out of the summer
heat into an air-conditioned restaurant for
a business lunch. -C.W. § Wine Without Borders,
Carrboro, NC
Maîtres Vignerons de la Presqu'ile
de Saint-Tropez $17
2020 Côtes de Provence St-Roch Les
Vignes (92 points) ^ From a cooperative in
Cuers, this is a restrained, elegant rosé. A
blend of equal parts cinsault and grenache,
it feels very Provençal, a smooth sea of strawberry,
almond, lemon blossom and thyme
flavors. It ends with a pleasant bitter note,
a sign that it will hold its own with food.
-T.Q.T. § Regal Wine Imports, Moorestown, NJ
LEBANON
ANA Beirut
$15
2020 Bekaa Valley Rosé (90 points) ^ Mostly
syrah with 20 percent tempranillo and 10
percent cabernet, this is a round, savory rosé,
with mossy green notes and quiet strawberry
fruit balanced by firm, salty savor. -T.Q.T. § J
TEK, Frisco, TX
SOuTH AFRICA
Fairview
$13
2021 Western Cape Goats do Roam Rosé
(90 points) ^ Bright, lemony acidity firms up
this juicy rosé of cinsault and grenache noir.
The fruit lands in an interesting spot colorwise,
somewhere between red and golden,
like a succulent, peak season peach around
the pit. -C.W. § Indigo Wine Group, Venice, FL
OREGON
Erath
$14
2020 Oregon Rosé (90 points) ^ A rosé
to grab by the case and unscrew on warm
days. It's forward and youthful, with scents
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Wine & Spirits - Summer 2022

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