Wine & Spirits - Summer 2022 - 66

Germany Nahe, Pfalz, Rheingau & Rheinhessen
AuSLESE
92 | Eugen Müller
$35
2019 Pfalz Kirchenstück Riesling Auslese
(BEST BUY) ^ This is not your usual Pfalz Auslese.
It smells like the hills of northern California,
the breeze carrying scents of eucalyptus
and rosemary; it tastes like Meyer lemons
and Gravenstein apples, with a hint of tart
red fruit around the edges. You might have
to work to figure out how to serve this, but it
inspired a raft of suggestions among our panelists,
from a simple salad of fennel, blood
orange and chopped almonds to a cardoon
gratin or a Sicilian-style fish in agrodolce. §
Skurnik Wines, NY
OTHER WHITE VARIETIES
90 | Müller-Catoir
RHEINGAU: WHITE
TROCKEN & GG
95 | Robert Weil
89 | Goldatzel
Rheingau
2019
$55
2020 Rheingau Kiedrich Turmberg Riesling
Trocken ^ This is a huge riesling, dry yet
ripe and round, the peach and apricot fruit
powered by mouthwatering acidity. Its clarity
gives it the feel of liquid sunshine; everlastingly
juicy, the flavors continue to well up in
the mouth long after each taste. This comes
from a steep, thin-soiled monopole that produces
wines lighter than those in neighboring
Gräfenberg, Weil's grand cru vineyard,
but in 2020 Turmberg is no less impressive. §
Loosen Bros. USA, Oregon City, OR
95 | Robert Weil
$24
2020 Pfalz MC Muskateller Trocken ^ This
is sophisticated muscat, balancing its floral
tones with peppery spice and crisp grapefruit
acidity, its lithe body filled with a weightless
umami richness. Restrained without losing
its charm (or charming without being wafty),
it's a terrific aperitif or match for leafy salads. §
Skurnik Wines, NY
90 | Pflüger
$29
2020 Pfalz Biodynamite ^ This is a headturner,
a fruity and floral blend of riesling
and gewürztraminer grown under biodynamics
and vinified in stainless steel. It
keeps up the interest with hints of nuts, herbs
and stone that add savor to the peach and
pear fruit, the wine feeling succulent without
being sweet. Pour it with a macadamiacrusted
fish. § P. J. Valckenberg, Crystal Lake, IL
87 | Villa Wolf
$12
2020 Pfalz Sauvignon Blanc (BEST BUY) ^
Impressively delicate for a $12 sauvignon
blanc, this balances cool green-apple flavors
with light, floral herb notes. § Loosen Bros.
USA, Oregon City, OR
86 | Villa Wolf
$12
2020 Pfalz Pinot Blanc (BEST BUY) ^ This is
simple, juicy and firm, with a green-apple
acidity to frame its sweet, round green-plum
fruit. § Loosen Bros. USA, Oregon City, OR
PFALZ: RED
86 | Villa Wolf
$90
2020 Rheingau Kiedrich Gräfenberg GG
Riesling ^ Packed with youthful energy, this
needs a day to begin to show its detail. A
selection from Wilhelm Weil's deep-soiled
grand-cru vineyard, it's so concentrated it
feels chewy, with notes of dried pear and
fleshy peach and a fruit-skin grip. Herbal
notes of lovage and angelica highlight the
wine's savor, as does the firm mineral base,
then it lasts with a yellow-fruit glow. Give this
time in the cellar, and enjoy the 2020 Turmberg
or Kiedricher in the meantime. § Loosen
Bros. USA, Oregon City, OR
93 | Robert Weil
$38
2020 Rheingau Kiedricher Riesling Trocken
^ This pairs power and delicacy to great
effect: It's like a skyscape of clouds illuminated
by the sun, with bright, wispy notes
of lime, lemon blossom and faint herbs propelled
by churning acidity, its concentration
perceptible in its longevity rather than
a perception of weight. A blend of youngervine
fruit from Weil's estate vineyards, this
is ready with whole fish grilled over an open
fire. § Loosen Bros. USA, Oregon City, OR
91 | Georg Breuer
$35
2020 Rheingau Rüdesheim Estate Riesling
Trocken ^ Ambitiously full-bodied and
ripe, this feels off-dry, with a round honeycomb
sweetness and juicy apple fruit. Those
components are balanced by savory notes
of slate and chamomile tea. The firm flavors
last, ready for roast pork. § Skurnik Wines, NY
$16
2020 Pfalz Pinot Noir (BEST BUY) ^ Light
and spicy, this is an easy pinot, with vanillascented
cherry flavor and fresh acidity. §
Loosen Bros. USA, Oregon City, OR
66
WINE & SPIR IT S
90 | Robert Weil
$20
2020 Rheingau Riesling Trocken (BEST
BUY) ^ Laser-sharp lemony flavors zing from
this wine, bone-dry yet juicy. It would slice
through sashimi like a sushi knife. § Loosen
Bros. USA, Oregon City, OR
Summ ER 202 2
$23
Glanzstück
Riesling
Trocken (BEST BUY) ^ This is dense and
reserved, meaty in its peach and yellowplum
flavor. It's firm and substantial but a
little hot, wanting a chill to give it more lift. §
Skurnik Wines, NY
HALBTROCKEN
86 | Leitz
$7/250ml can
2020 Rheingau Leitz Out Riesling (BEST
BUY) ^ Sold in four-pack cans, this is handy for
camping, hiking, canoe trips or anytime you
might want a clean, juicy riesling in a small
unbreakable package. § Schatzi, Milan, NY
KABINET T
92 | Fritz Allendorf
$19
2020 Rheingau Riesling Kabinett (BEST
BUY) ^ This is lip-sticking in its clementine and
peach flavors, refreshing in its gingery verve.
It feels firm and juicy, all the fruit supported
by crisp mineral notes and bright acidity, the
flavors lasting with a springtime freshness. §
Winesellers, Niles, IL
SPATLESE
94 | Robert Weil
$30
2020 Rheingau Riesling Spätlese (BEST
BUY) ^ A constant fountain of fruit, this propels
its citrusy, peachy flavor with vibrant, sunny
acidity. And it lasts like this for days after
opening, although every time you pour a
glass it invites you to drink the rest of the bottle.
A blend of declassified fruit from Weil's
top sites as well as grapes from nearby estate
vineyards, this offers a terrifically affordable
way to get a sense of Weil's pristine, generous
style. § Loosen Bros. USA, Oregon City, OR
92 | Spreitzer
$60
2020 Rheingau Oestricher Lenchen Eisenberg
303 Riesling Spätlese ^ This is on the
sweet side of Spätlese, from old vines, planted
in iron-rich, stony loess and loam soils, that
produced a wine with concentrated flavor-
the mango and peach notes balanced by
earthier plantain and bright acidity. Pour it
with a plain cake or fresh fruit for a light dessert.
§ Skurnik Wines, NY
AuSLESE
97 | Robert Weil
$164/375ml
2020 Rheingau Kiedrich Gräfenberg
Riesling Auslese ^ Chantilly-cream light and
sweet, this is a confection of airy strawberryapricot
flavors that glides over the palate
Wine & Spirits - Summer 2022

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