Wine & Spirits - Summer 2023 - 101

with scents of turned soil, along with a dark
oak spice that expands into clove and cedar.
The flavors are chocolatey, full-throated,
with a texture that flaunts density, but with
a velvety give to the tannins. Over three days
it became only more harmonious, suggesting
a long life ahead. -P.J.C. (2,992 cases) §
Wine Spirits&
Our Score
Definitions
W&S scores are based
93 | Gramercy Cellars
$60
2019 Horse Heaven Hills Phinny Hill
Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon ^ Initial
scents of purple plum and cedar give this
wine an inky cast, all pointing to its youth.
Tasted over several days, it unfurls with a
dusty intensity, the violet and plum flavors
intermingling with a warm elegance, the tannins
claylike and tobacco-scented. For now it
needs a decanter and a large glass. Or time in
the cellar. -P.J.C. (219 cases) §
91 | Chateau Ste. Michelle $18
2020 Columbia Valley Indian Wells Cabernet
Sauvignon (BEST BUY) ^ This feels wellbuilt
and powerful, with black-raspberry fruit
coursing through the middle that seems to
coordinate the cedar and kid-leather savor.
It's a steal for the price, a dark plum beauty
for steak. -P.J.C. §
on quality and distinctive
regional character,
to help you find delicious
wines grown and
made with integrity.
91 | Métier
$30
2021 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
^ This attractive new cabernet from
DeLille has a lovely, mildly backward scent of
pine, pepper, and tobacco. The flavors reflect
a dark cherry cast, but delivered firmly, with
grippy cherry-skin tannins. -P.J.C. §
MERLOT
91 | DeLille
$65
2020 Yakima Valley Le Colosse ^ Scents of
olives and pine tips give the firm impression
of the cool sources of this merlot: the Dubrul,
Boushey and Harrison Hill vineyards in the
Yakima Valley. The wine is all dark plum on
the palate, its crunchy, firm texture providing
the structure to age. -P.J.C. (925 cases) §
90 | Chateau Ste. Michelle $15
2019 Columbia Valley Merlot (BEST BUY) ^
Generous in its dark plummy fruit and
coffee'd oak frame, this merlot has a pleasing
austerity to its firm dried-berry depths. It
needs food; pour with a steak. -P.J.C. §
90 | L'Ecole No 41
91 | L'Ecole No 41
$32
2020 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
^ A model Columbia Valley cabernet
bottling, this has a classic Washington savor
of tobacco leaf and vivid black plum with a
dark-chocolate undertone. The flavors are
concentrated and dark, with cedary tannins
for skirt steak. -P.J.C. §
91 | L'Ecole No 41
$44
2020 Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
^ Like the Columbia Valley (also recommended
here), this is a benchmark from
a classic vintage, exhibiting the cedar and
tobacco aromas common to Walla Walla
fruit, with spicy cardamom and clove notes.
It's a big boy; give it time in the cellar to knit.
-P.J.C. (1,950 cases) §
$27
2020 Columbia Valley Merlot (BEST BUY) ^
Dry and a touch tannic, this wine has a dark
plum scent with a hint of smoke, almost as
if the fruit were halved and grilled. It's dusty
and charry but has plenty of acidity to drive
through the intense tannic payload. -P.J.C.
(3,600 cases) §
SYRAH
92 | Itä
$48
2020 Walla Walla Valley Les Collines Vineyard
Syrah ^ This walks a line between smoky
savor and lifted, fruit-blossom aromatics.
The two play off each other in interesting
ways, the smoky, herbal notes disrupted by
a burst of berry fruit and puckery acidity. A
mouthwatering syrah for steak. -P.J.C. § l
100
TRANSCENDENT
A wine that speaks directly from
the earth, communicating the
flavors of its place with unequaled
complexity and intensity; it will
offer pleasure for decades.
96-99
ASTONISHING, RARE
A wine that saturates the senses
with flavors that feel unique
and thrilling; a rare landmark
for its region.
93-95
EXCITING, DISTINCTIVE
A wine that transcends simple
typicity to its region or variety-a
vivid, singular expression of place.
90-92
DELICIOUS, COMPELLING
A compelling wine of its
region; a delicious, finessed
expression of a place.
88-89
DELICIOUS, REPRESENTATIVE
Well-made, pleasurable and
true to its region or variety.
85-87
BALANCED, CROWD PLEASING
Identifiable in style and regional
character, and qualitatively solid.
80-84
USEFUL
Simple wine that will either
quench thirst or play a useful
role at the table.
https://www.delillecellars.com/wine/metier-cabernet-sauvignon/ https://www.lecole.com/
Wine & Spirits - Summer 2023

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