Wine & Spirits - Summer 2023 - 89

Ribera del Duero
93 | Hnos. Pérez Pascuas $115
2016 Ribera del Duero Gran Reserva Viña
Pedrosa ^ Based in Pedrosa de Duero, northwest
of Roa, the Pérez Pascuas family farms
close to 300 acres of vineyards. They selectgrapes
for this wine from 60-year-old vines,
aging it for two years in barrel, then at least
three years in bottle. It's stately, an old-fashioned
Ribera del Duero with plump, anisescented
fruit. That purple fruit flavor runs
deep, lasting past the warmth of the wine.
A gracious red for pork braised with fennel. §
Think Global Wines, Santa Barbara, CA
93 | Dominio del Pidio
$100
2020 Ribera del Duero ^ This is a project from
Oscar and Robert Aragón, brothers who also
work at their family's winery, Cillar de Silos
(their 2020 Cillar Vendimia Seleccionada is
also recommended here). They restored the
16th-century cellars in Quintana del Pidio
that once served the local monastery. Their
2020 is light and fresh with delicate red
fruit scents that last. There's a bitter bakingchocolate
note to the tannins, the wine having
aged for 16 months in French oak barrels,
60 feet underground. It's a Ribera del
Duero with stamina, driving forward, leaving
a breath of fresh air in its wake. § Alt Wines,
Coral Gables, FL
93 | Resalte de Peñafiel $257
Ribera del Duero Essences Cuvée No. 2 ^
This is a blend of several vintages from the
bodega's stock, selected for longevity and
aged in large French oak casks. Potently
structured, the wine still feels welcoming in
its blueberry flavors, while chalky tannins
give it life and lift. Those tannins keep their
grip on the finish, the black fruit lasting past
them with scents of roses to match the freshness
of the tannins. § MC Elite, Miami, FL
92 | Neo
$30
2021 Ribera del Duero El Arte de Vivir
Tempranillo ^ This wine's substance and
power build out of a salty savor in the tannins,
as cool fruit depths rise like a wave of
flavor, richly, elaborately structured. There's
lots of cumin spice on the fruit without feeling
oaken, lasting with a sweet apricot high
note. § W.Direct, Lawrence, KS
92 | Torres
$25
2019 Ribera del Duero Celeste Crianza ^
(BEST BUY) Grown near Fompedraza, south
of Peñafiel, this is a wine of indulgent richness,
its vibrant red-currant and strawberry
flavors turning purple in the shadow of blueblack
tannins. There are no edges to it, the
wine needing time to come into focus with
92 | Valdeviñas
air. It has a summery tomato-skin undertone
giving a sunny warmth. § Wilson Daniels,
Napa, CA
show the wine's age at the edges. For drinking
now with roast lamb. § Spanish Wine Exclusives,
NY
92 | Vega Clara
$37
2020 Ribera del Duero Mario ^ Clara Concejo
founded her winery in Quintanilla de
Onésimo (Valladolid), the town where most
of her 29.6 acres of vines are located. It's in
the western side of Ribera del Duero, and the
fruit of the wine has a vertical freshness, as if
looking to the Atlantic, noted panelist Nacho
Monclús. There's purity to the currant flavor,
supported by oak behind the fruit. An
immediate, easy pleasure. § Classic Wines,
Stamford, CT
92 | Vilano
$45
2005 Ribera del Duero Tinar de Mirat ^
Based in Langa de Duero, in the eastern hills
of Ribera del Duero, Valdeviñas works with
its own vineyards as well as small plots of old
vines around the village. This late release has
reached sweet maturity while the fruit still
feels vibrant, with notes of blueberries and
bergamot. The soft texture is beginning to
$55
2019 Ribera del Duero Reserva ^ There's
a positive charge to this wine's pomegranate-red
fruit. The tannins are oaky in their
coffee-bean richness, lending a sleek, sumptuous
texture along with a spice, like fenugreek.
It feels Moorish-Iberian, with a sweet
blackberry density for North African dishes. §
W.Direct, Lawrence, KS
https://www.valdevinas.es/ https://gilfamily.es/
Wine & Spirits - Summer 2023

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