FEATURE Considering a Dry January? Alissa Bica interviewed mixologists across the country about their strategies for building balance and texture in zero-ABV drinks. 36 FEATURE DEPARTMENTS Editor's Note ...........................1 Contributors ...........................2 Fined & Filtered ......................8 stephanie johnson reports on Alta Langa sparklers. 8; joshua greene, johnson, susannah smith and david hawkins page through the latest wine books, p. 10; patrick j. comiskey updates us on alternative varieties in Napa (p. 18) and lightweight glass, p. 20; and we look back on our Top 100 SF tasting, p. 24. Personal Taste .......................96 dominick purnomo considers the multicultural influences on how service and the wine program evolved in tandem at Yono's, his family's restaurant. TASTINGS At a Glance ............................44 How We Taste ........................93 FOCUS Champagne ...........................45 US Cabernet Sauvignon ........50 Barolo & Barbaresco .............62 Other Piedmont ....................68 Southwest France ..................70 Rioja Reds..............................72 Alentejo .................................75 Port ........................................77 US New Releases ....................78 Imported New Releases .........83 Non-Alcoholic Spirits ............90 Peruvian Pisco .......................92 New Release Spirits ...............93 What physical changes are vignerons around the globe making to adapt to a changing climate? Corey Warren reports. 30 FEATURE ON THE COVER PHOTO BY IAN LORING SHIVER, STYLING BY KELSI WINDMILLER 6 WINE & SPIR IT S W INTER 2023 Alissa Bica guides you through Peru's Pisco bars innovating with this five-hundred-year-old spirit and its signature Sour. 26 CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: PHOTO BY SHAUGHN & JOHN, PHOTO COURTESY OF MULLINEUX, PHOTO COURTESY OF CARNAVAL