Wine & Spirits - Winter 2023 - 61

US Cabernet & Blends
nins in the end. Overall juicy and clean, this
is ready to enjoy in a steakhouse. -J.G. (414
cases) §
CENTRAL COAST
94 | Ridge
$275
2020 Santa Cruz Mountains Monte Bello ^
The extremities of the season built the character
in this 2020, the vines stressed by the
driest winter on record, then relieved by rain
in the spring. Those vines set a small crop
due to that rain, which rode through the heat
spikes of June into a mild summer, then concentrated
into perfumed blue and black fruit
flavors as the heat returned in August. Of
the 45 blocks destined for Monte Bello, 36
made the cut in 2020, a blend of 84 percent
cabernet, 14 percent petit verdot, 11 percent
merlot and one percent franc. John Olney
and his team worked to gentle the extraction
of that concentrated fruit, though they
still ended up with a big, herbal cabernet, its
foresty berry and plum skin flavors including
touches of raisins, the tannins dry, but
not severe. An elegant wine for its substantial
size, this speaks of care in farming and
in the " pre-industrial " winemaking strategies
at Ridge: A great wine in a challenging
season. -J.G. §
growers who work with the firm's sibling
brands, particularly Beringer. The varieties
combine in a fruit-driven red, clean and lush,
even as it feels lean. Shiraz takes it toward
green-peppercorn scents, fragrant and spicy,
adding dimension to the cabernet. Its bright
blueberry freshness would be delicious with
wood-grilled lamb kebabs . - J.G. §
90 | Madroña
$38
2019 El Dorado Quintet ^ About half and half
merlot and cabernet, this is oak-dominant
with scents of sawdust and black plum. A bit
unformed for now, but the flavors of violets,
licorice and plum show promise. Cellar, or
decant it for steak. -P.J.C. §
VIRGINIA
90 | Stinson Vineyards
$41
2019 Monticello Meritage ^ Slightly burnished,
with notes of age adorning dried
red-fruit leather and tar, this wine's lean and
angular structure brings Bordeaux to mind.
For braised lamb. -P.J.C. (300 cases) §
WASHINGTON
92 | Saviah
$45
2021 Walla Walla Valley Une Vallée Red
Wine ^ A blend of cabernet, merlot and cabernet
franc, this is leafy with some heady high
notes. The flavors are generous and bright,
with a dried-plum and tomato-skin savor,
lush against the powdery tannins. -P.J.C.
(456 cases) §
91 | Aquilini
$70
2019 Red Mountain Family Blend ^ A blend
of cabernet, merlot and petite verdot, this
has scents of iron and clove, of fresh and
dried plums. It's explosive, a mouthful of
fruit and mouthcoating tannins, a wallop for
braised beef. -P.J.C. (1,067 cases) §
91 | Prospice Wines
$65
2020 Columbia Valley BDX ^ A blend of
roughly equal parts merlot, cabernet sauvignon
and cabernet franc, this is slightly green
and leathery, with a waxy texture firming up
dark plum flavors and tobacco-scented tannins.
For lamb sausages. -P.J.C. (121 cases) §
91 | Saviah
$45
2020 Walla Walla Valley Big Sky Cuvée ^ A
blend of mostly merlot and cabernet sauvignon,
this smells of sundried tomatoes and
soy sauce. It's sleek and elegant, the cherryskin
flavors lasting through an earthy finish.
-P.J.C. (588 cases) §
88 | Roaming Dog
$15
2020 Columbia Valley Red Blend (BEST
BUY) ^ Attractively leafy with sweet red-fruit
accents, this Bordeaux-variety blend has a
scent of violet flower petals and dark purple
fruit, with firm tannins for roast beef. -P.J.C.
(3,509 cases) § l
90 | J. Lohr
$27
2021 Paso Robles Pure Paso ^ This is blackpepper
dusty adorning an inky core of carob
and cassis fruit. The flavors pack a wallop of
dark fruit, with a velvety tannins on the finish.
-P.J.C. §
CALIFORNIA AVA
93 | Penfolds
$50
2020 California Bin 600 Cabernet Shiraz
^ The Penfolds team planted vine cuttings
from South Australia at the Camatta Hills
Vineyard in Paso Robles, which contributes
the shiraz in this blend. The cabernet sauvignon
(68 percent) comes from selected
91 | Chasing Rain
$25
2020 Red Mountain Red Blend (BEST BUY) ^
This blend emphasizes cabernet and merlot-quite
smoky and savory, with clove and
olive scents. It feels as if the merlot structures
the palate, with a sleek, red-fruited lightness
of touch to its lean tannins. For a burger.
-P.J.C. (1,120 cases) §
Raising Wine Standards,
One Glass at a Time.
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Wine & Spirits - Winter 2023

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