Wine & Spirits - Winter 2023 - 92

Peruvian Pisco
Here are the top-rated Piscos from our
recent blind panel tasting, with notes and
ratings by Alissa Bica. Subscribers can
find a complete list of spirits tasted and all
our of tasting notes on our website.
PISCO PURO
ALBILLA
| Tacama
body is full and savory while maintaining a
lifted energy; one of the most complex Piscos
of the tasting. § Topa Spirits, Spokane, WA
ITALIA
| Viñas de Oro
$25
Demonio de los Andes Pisco Albilla ^ One
of the earliest grapes to arrive in Peru from
Spain, albilla has been genetically identified
as listán blanco from the Canary Islands (in
Andalucía, it is called palomino fino). This
Pisco carries subtle aromas of mango, limeade
and white grape juice. On the palate
the mango fruit persists along with a pleasant
candied-sugar quality reminiscent of
agave. It feels warm, tropical and lush, with
a smooth, long finish. Enjoy it like a Tequila:
over a large cube of ice with a twist of lime. §
Ebros Import Corp., Valley Stream, NY
MOLLAR
$43
Pisco Puro Italia ^ This springs from the glass
with the scents of a summer garden: Rose petals,
orange and cherry blossoms mingle with
exotic litchi and black pepper-a gewürztraminer-lover's
Pisco. The body is pillowy and
lifted, great for a floral Pisco Sour. It can also
be mixed with fresh-squeezed grapefruit
juice and mint for a twist on a mojito. § Preiss
Imports, Ramona, CA
| Suyo
$60
Pisco Italia No. 2 ^ Made from the aromatic
italia grape, this Pisco has some floral qualities-vanilla
blossom and juniper-but leads
with rosemary, spearmint and green bell pepper.
Danielle Motor of Sunset Boulevardier
said, " its herbaceous nature makes it a great
gin alternative. " It has a zippy energy and
finishes with lemon-lime citrus for a pop of
brightness. § Unidos Imports, Orlando, FL
NEGRA CRI OLLA
| Viñas de Oro
$43
Pisco Puro Negra Criolla ^ This pisco, made
from red-skinned negra criolla, is bursting
with bright cherry, red apple blossom and
violet florals. It has an undercurrent of spice,
like the kind found in mulled wine, and the
fruit goes from fresh to stewed on the palate.
One taster called it a " winter pisco " because
of these flavors, but there's a tension between
its fresh and stewed elements that creates
exciting energy. § Preiss Imports, Ramona, CA
| Logía
$55
Pisco Mollar ^ Mollar, known as negramoll
in the Canary Islands, is a red-skinned grape
variety allowed in Pisco production, and this
one is a showstopper. This is pressed, vinified
and distilled by distiller Nati Gordillo, based
in Azpitia, Peru. Distinctly red-fruited, it has
scents of red currant, cranberry and spice-
71Above's India Mandlekern called it " Christmasy. "
There is a touch of cocoa on the palate
mingling with fresh honeydew melon. The
92
WINE & SPIR IT S
TORONTEL
| Barsol
$37
Puro Torontel ^ Founder and Master Distiller
Diego Loret de Mola works with torontel
wine from the southern valley of Ica to create
this Pisco Puro. Extremely aromatic with
white flowers, jasmine and lemongrass scents
over ripe peach and dried apricot flavors, it's
a sensuous Pisco. Energetic and summery,
W INTER 2023
QUEBRANTA
| Viñas de Oro
$43
Pisco Puro Quebranta ^ Located 133 miles
south of Lima, in El Carmen, Chincha en Ica,
Viñas de Oro farms close to 2,000 acres of six
Pisco grapes. Quebranta, considered a nonaromatic
variety, is used most often for Peru's
signature drink, the Pisco Sour. But in our
tastings, Viñas de Oro Pisco Puro Quebranta
proved to be anything but ordinary. Bright,
fresh and complex, it has a body that's silkysmooth
and pillowy while flavors of lime
and red currant meld with the scent of a sea
breeze, lingering in the end. § Preiss Imports,
Ramona, CA
| Capurro
$36
Quebranta Pisco ^ The Capurro family has
been farming for over 100 years through
five generations. They work without chemicals,
using organic and biodynamic practices,
hand-harvesting their grapes and fermenting
them without additions. This Quebranta is
a clean, distinctly spicy Pisco with cracked
black pepper leading the charge. Its undertones
of jasmine and orange oil are carried
by a bright, youthful energy. § Romina Foods,
San Mateo, CA
| Pisco Ku
$40
Quebranta Pisco ^ Pisco Ku is 133 miles south
of Lima, in the district of El Carmen, Chincha
in Ica. The property has just under 200
acres dedicated to six different Pisco grapes.
this would be great mixed with soda or tonic,
served over ice with a twist of lemon. § Hotaling
& Co., San Francisco, CA
| Logía
$45
Pisco Torontel ^ Master distiller and blender
Nati Gordillo worked with her husband to
transform a small, sandy plot of land on the
hills of Azpitia in Peru's Mala Valley into a
Pisco vineyard. This torontel is bright and
energetic, its flavors of tropical mango peel
finishing with a savory salinity. While aromatic,
it feels balanced, sprightly and springy
on the tongue. § Topa Spirits, Spokane, WA
| Viñas de Oro
$43
Pisco Puro Torontel ^ Full of floral white
musk and dried potpourri on the nose,
this Pisco feels light and lifted in its flavors
of orange peel and green pear. Mixologist
Danielle Motor of Sunset Boulevardier
said it reminded her of Poire Williams; she
would mix it with grapefruit juice for a twist
on a Greyhound cocktail or use it in a spritz
with Dolin Blanc vermouth. § Preiss Imports,
Ramona, CA
https://piscologia.com/
Wine & Spirits - Winter 2023

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