bake - June 2012 - PAN37

BREADS & BAKING
how it develops. A sourdough culture
has three distinct life stages: creation,
which is the initial mixture of fl our
and water; elaboration, which is
the process of building the strength
and resiliency of the culture; and
perpetuation, or maintenance, which
is keeping the culture going so you
can use it to leaven bread.
There are differences in sourdough
starters across different regions of the
world. While the differences in the
local water and environment will have
a slight impact on the differences in
the starters, the differences in the
fl ours will have an even greater impact;
there are 13,000 cells of wild yeast and
about 320 cells of lactic bacteria in a
single gram of fl our.
Additionally, using fl ours other
than unbleached white fl our, such as
whole wheat or rye, can have an impact
on the fermentation of the culture
by providing additional minerals
and nutrients to the microorganisms,
accelerating the process.
Hydration is a key factor to
consider. A liquid starter (100
percent hydration) will increase the
production of lactic acidity in the
culture, which is much milder in fl avor
than the acetic acid promoted by a
stiff starter (50 percent-60 percent
hydration).
Further, high temperatures
(above 85°F) favor the production
of lactic acidity, but fermentation
is more diffi cult to control because
of the increased yeast activity. Low
temperatures (below 60°F) favor
the production of acetic acidity
and suppress fermentation activity.
Temperatures around 75°F to 77°F
provide a nice balance between
the fermentation activity, dough
development and abundant fl avors
and aromas.
How often the starter is refreshed
with additional fl our or water has a
signifi cant impact on the fi nal product.
Normally, starters are fed once, twice
or even three times per day. This will
usually depend on the production
schedule in regards to convenience
and need. Using a starter at the proper
time will maximize the positive effects
in the bread.
A good sign that the starter is
mature is when the surface of the starter
(liquid or stiff) rises three to four times
in volume and has just begun to recede.
This will be apparent by small cracks
and crevasses on the surface of the
starter. The more feedings that occur,
the more control over the process the
baker will have. Additionally, bread
that is made from a starter fed two
or three times a day will have more
complex flavors than a bread made
from a starter that is fed only once a
day. One caveat: it’s important for the
culture to be fully mature before being
fed; otherwise, you may lose some of
that complexity of fl avor as well as the
other benefi ts of acidity.
There are also other factors that
need to be taken into consideration
when deciding how often to feed
the starter. Feeding three times a
day provides more opportunities to
increase the quantity and compensate
for last minute orders. Three times a
day also provides more opportunities
to correct problems with the starter and
keep it more regular. For example, if the
starter is fed only once a day, and the
bakery happens to be unusually warm,
the starter is likely to move at a faster
JUNE 12 | PANADERIA
35
rate than usual. Because the starter is only fed once a day
it is likely to over-mature and shift the proper balance of
yeast and bacteria activity. This will cause inconsistencies
in the bread. If the starter is fed twice, or three times a day,
the damage due to increased activity will be controlled
and limited.
Essentially, the process of feeding the starter and
the conditions in which it is maintained will ultimately
determine how sour or mild the bread will be.
What is important to realize is that to produce
high-quality sourdough bread there is a certain level of
commitment required. If the baker is not willing to make
this commitment, it will show in the bread. The key is
consistency in feeding and maintaining the culture; the
ultimate result is a consistent fi nal product your customers
can count on.
bake - June 2012

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