bake - August 2012 - 54

Laminating with Whole Grains
At Ponsford’s Place in San Rafael, CA, morning buns topped with juicy California raisins and ﬂaky croissants ﬁlled with fresh herbs and assorted local vegetables like crunchy carrots are ﬂying off the retail shelves these days. Bakery owner Craig Ponsford is witnessing a healthy surge in demand for baked goods that address health, but taste incredibly fresh. “The healthy aspect is secondary,” Ponsford told bakers who gathered June 28-30 in Chicago for WheatStalk 2012, the national conference of the Bread Bakers Guild of America. “The number-one priority is that it has to taste really good. I’m promoting tasty food that takes care of you.” Ponsford demonstrated several laminated dough products during a workshop, “Laminating with Whole Grains,” at Wheatstalk 2012. To make morning buns, Ponsford starts with a 95% extraction, whole-milled hard red winter wheat (13.5% protein). He also uses a poolish to help with the extensibility of his dough. He prefers a spiral mixer to bring the dough to a “shaggy” stage. Once mixed, the dough is moved on to the sheeter for laminating. “I’m doing a lot of laminated doughs, so a sheeter is really practical to my business,” he says. A kernel of wheat is the seed from which the wheat plant grows. Each seed contains three distinct parts: the endosperm, bran and the germ. The endosperm is the source of white ﬂour. Bran is included in whole wheat ﬂour and also can be bought Ponsford has done extensive study on how processed foods react in the body, and he believes that whole-milled ﬂour is better for the digestive system. “I believe the bitterness of whole grains is attributable to the modern milling process,” he says. The modern milling process involves a gradual reduction of the wheat kernels that are processed through large-scale roller mills. The goal is to produce coarse particles of endosperm. The wheat particles are graded and separated from the bran by sieves and puriﬁers. Each size returns to corresponding rollers, and the same process is repeated until the desired ﬂour is obtained. Whole-milled ﬂour Because he does not use white ﬂour in his bakery, Ponsford concentrates on whole grains and prefers whole-milled ﬂour to the common types of whole grain ﬂours available in the US. Whole-milled ﬂour is made from the whole grain of the wheat; nothing is extracted and nothing is added. It contains all parts of the wheat grain including the outer layers of bran and the germ.

54 < AUG 2012 | bakemag.com

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bake - August 2012

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of bake - August 2012

bake - August 2012
Editor's Note - The elusive consumer
Contents
News Bites - Team USA Shines at Pastry Event
RBA Honors Kalupa
Ponsford, Faber Receive Top Award
Bunge Opens Culinary Center
Chefmaster Moves to New Plant
Fritsch to Show Wood-Fired Oven
Hot Bread Opens in Harlem
Connect to a Cause
Management - Make Your Mark
Tax Tips - A Family Affair
Labor Front - Worker's Compensation
Legislation - Californians Ask for Right to Know
Ingredients - Sweetening Naturally
Follow the Money
Keeping It Clean
13 for '13
Rise of the Panaderia
Center Cake
Fulfilling a Need
Transitioning to New Crop Flour
Chain News
Laminating with Whole Grains
Cafe - Novelty to Go
Products
Showcase
Classifieds
bake - August 2012 - Editor's Note - The elusive consumer
bake - August 2012 - 2
bake - August 2012 - 3
bake - August 2012 - 4
bake - August 2012 - Contents
bake - August 2012 - RBA Honors Kalupa
bake - August 2012 - Bunge Opens Culinary Center
bake - August 2012 - Connect to a Cause
bake - August 2012 - 9
bake - August 2012 - Management - Make Your Mark
bake - August 2012 - 11
bake - August 2012 - Tax Tips - A Family Affair
bake - August 2012 - 13
bake - August 2012 - Labor Front - Worker's Compensation
bake - August 2012 - 15
bake - August 2012 - Legislation - Californians Ask for Right to Know
bake - August 2012 - 17
bake - August 2012 - Ingredients - Sweetening Naturally
bake - August 2012 - 19
bake - August 2012 - Follow the Money
bake - August 2012 - 21
bake - August 2012 - 22
bake - August 2012 - 23
bake - August 2012 - 24
bake - August 2012 - 25
bake - August 2012 - 26
bake - August 2012 - 27
bake - August 2012 - 28
bake - August 2012 - Keeping It Clean
bake - August 2012 - 30
bake - August 2012 - 31
bake - August 2012 - 32
bake - August 2012 - 13 for '13
bake - August 2012 - 34
bake - August 2012 - 35
bake - August 2012 - Rise of the Panaderia
bake - August 2012 - 37
bake - August 2012 - 38
bake - August 2012 - 39
bake - August 2012 - Center Cake
bake - August 2012 - 41
bake - August 2012 - 42
bake - August 2012 - 43
bake - August 2012 - Fulfilling a Need
bake - August 2012 - 45
bake - August 2012 - 46
bake - August 2012 - 47
bake - August 2012 - 48
bake - August 2012 - Transitioning to New Crop Flour
bake - August 2012 - Chain News
bake - August 2012 - 51
bake - August 2012 - 52
bake - August 2012 - 53
bake - August 2012 - Laminating with Whole Grains
bake - August 2012 - 55
bake - August 2012 - 56
bake - August 2012 - 57
bake - August 2012 - Cafe - Novelty to Go
bake - August 2012 - 59
bake - August 2012 - 60
bake - August 2012 - 61
bake - August 2012 - Products
bake - August 2012 - 63
bake - August 2012 - Showcase
bake - August 2012 - Classifieds
bake - August 2012 - 66
bake - August 2012 - 67
bake - August 2012 - 68
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